ZJ track bar axle end repair lessons learned

Finally got around to welding on a washer. So far so good but I'm not really happy with it.

First lesson learned. There are no readily available commercial washers that are a good fit on a 10mm bolt. 3/8 is tighter on it than 10mm.

9mm won't fit over it, nor will 5/16.

Second lesson learned. The hole is worn out oversized on both ends. There's only access to weld a washer on the front. The back hole is still oversized and the washer fix won't work.

Third lesson learned, the thickest washer Fastenal had in stock is still much thinner than the part being repaired.

Fourth lesson learned. The Harbor Freight 80 amp inverter welder is completely adequate for this repair--it's quite capable of slagging down the whole washer if you get careless with it.

Fifth lesson learned. The hole is worn out enough that after the weld it may be necessary to adjust the position of the axle to get the bolt back in.

Sixth lesson learned. A Home Depot Workforce 16 ft x 1-1/4 ratchet tie down does a fine job of adjusting the axle position.

Future action. When the weather warms up I'm going to jack it up, weld both holes around the rim and redrill for a good fit on the bolt. That's really the "right" fix.

Reply to
J. Clarke
Loading thread data ...

What about taking some flat steel and drilling the best sized hole? After all, looks are not critical, and so if it is not quite round on the outside, no problem right?

Reply to
PeterD

I considered that. People are saying the washer works so I decided to give it a try.

Reply to
J. Clarke

As my elderly German shop instructor used to say, "der ist rwo vays to do tings: Right und Offer!"

Reply to
Will Honea

Every general purpose washer I've ever seen was pretty mild steel. For what you're doing, I would prefer 1/8" steel bar stock. Even if you have to grind the thickness down after welding you get a much better hold plus a quick spray of water after the weld will quench the piece at least somewhat for a better temper. On farm equipment (a lot of years back) we tended to drill out the original hole so that we could weld in an insert as well as the cap scab then re-drill the whole thing. The idea was to maximize the bearing area.

Reply to
Will Honea

Dremel hand grinder. And a hunk of appropriate steel.

Reply to
Lon

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.