I have a 2004 Rio RX-V. I've noticed over the last week or so that, under
heavy acceleration, the engine starts racing beyond what can be explained by
the speed of the car. It's as though the clutch weren't engaged fully.
When I let off the gas a little, it engages properly again (with a lurch).
Is this happening because I've driven the car too hard, or...? It's only
got 27KKm on the dial, and I figure with only 104Hp I can't have worn the
clutch out so fast unless they're using play-doh for gears.
PS: Please respond to group only.
I own the 2002 Kia Rio (4 door) with 1.5 liter engine and 5 speed manual
Starting at about 5,000 miles I had my first instance of clutch slip. I let
it go as it was just a single occurance.
Then at 8,000 miles the same thing started to happen; noticably when in
fifth gear at the top of a freeway entrance ramp, merging and goosing the
gas for the last 15 mph of acceleration (again, in 5th gear).
New Orleans Kia Dealer's service advisor first remarked "Oh, I didn't think
they MADE them with manual transmissions!". Then the service mechanic
test-drove it and REALLY smoked the clutch (thanks, buddy!) and they
basically said "yep, it's slipping all right; replace the clutch, it's not a
warranty item being a "wear item". I've owned many autos with manual
transmissions and when buying a new car, I don't have to replace the clutch
usually until 165,000 miles. I operate my vehicles conservatively (though I
drive rather fast on open expressways) when going through the gears.
My beef is that my local St. Augustine, FL dealer says there's nothing to
adjust! I adjusted my own linkage and managed to get the problem under
control. Now I am up to 97,000 miles on that very same clutch.
Duncan, I'd strongly suggest that you carefully inspect under your car's
engine from below and look between the engine and transmission cases. On my
car there is oil, a very minute amount, coming from between the engine and
transmission pans, where they join together. I get a small "ink blot" little
drop of oil about once every two days on my (new) concrete driveway.
What they did not recognize in the two times I've brought the car in to
assess the problem was that PROBABLY I was getting oil from the engine onto
I am going to bring it back in before it hits 100,000 miles. And I am going
to press them into replacing the clutch under warranty work for the main
engine oil seal. Or at least skip out on the labor. I have in thier records
that I did bring it into thier shop at 19,000 miles for this problem and New
Orleans at 8,000 miles. If even I buy the clutch lining (about $120 US
retail, I believe) with free labor that should set me up. Why should you
nurse-maid a clutch for so many miles? Using my method of adjustment I have
been able to successfully negotiate mountains on the freeway on trips I take
out of state/cross country.
Also, look out for your back wheel bearings. Both the left and the right
inner and outer rear wheel bearings have failed prematurely.
The rest of the car, save for electrical engine noise on the AM radio (I
love chasing down distant and fringe AM stations and listening to talk radio
or news) is fine. With those oil droppings, my engine literally NEVER
consumes any motor oil. Oh, and always make sure your gasoline filler cap
is on very snugly. Or else you'll get you check engine light to come on. I
have had no other problems with it at all. I have done no maintenance except
for oil changes, replacing the air filter and I just regapped my platinum
factory spark plugs that were burning out a bit from excessive use/
exceeding thier lifespan. I am going to look into replacing the timing belt
once it shows signs of wear. Should really replace it every 60,000 miles, I
wait till I see it 'aging' or wearing.
Ah, also I replaced the front brake pads and lubed the sliding pin for both
the front brake calipers. The brake wore out on the front left pad when the
caliper didn't retract fully to it's normal resting position. This isn't a
major problem, rather common. Brakes make for a lot of dust and then there's
the normal dirt and grime you normally encounter, along with the heat
generated by brakes, the grease inside the pin area under the weather boot
tends to dry up a bit.
Best of luck and please post what happens to you in getting this settled. I
love manual transmissions and this is causing me to re-think what I'll have
the next time I buy.
Ron in Florida
I owned the car from new since August 2002 and am closing in on 100,000
Duncan and Ron;
I had the same issue here in Canada with my 2000 kia Sephia. At 20,000km
the clutch began to slip... the car was 9 months old at the time. I
returned it to the dealer who, claimed the exact same thing as Duncan's
dealer claimed... the clutch is a wear item and it is not covered. They
actually had the nerve to blame my "driving habits" and asked me if it was
my first standard car!!
Need less to say I was pissed. I had driven a standard car for over 13
years at that point and for them to make that claim... well... it sent me
over the edge... I took back the car and drove it another 2,000km (2weeks)
until the clutch was slipping in every gear! I returned to my dealer after
speaking to kia Canada customer service. They kept the car for a week and
replaced the clutch under warranty.
The car worked great until 27,000km... then the whole thing started over
again! The dealer claimed there was nothing they could adjust and it was
simply my fault!... I was "to hard on the little car" They refused to do
anything more for me. I flipped out on Kia Canada's customer service and
they agreed to sell me through another dealer a new clutch at "whole sale"
and I could have it replaced where ever I wanted providing I would not
continue to make it an issue.
I reluctantly agreed and I took the clutch and car to a friends car repair
centre to have them install it. They had the car for one day... I picked it
up and guess what? It was still slipping!!! The mechanic confirmed that
there was no adjustment on the clutch assembly but it was possible that
there was an adjustment inside the car on the actual clutch pedal... though
that was not common anymore and he had not seen it in years...
He raised the car in the air and looked at the clutch pedal and voiced his
disbelief that there actually were 2 adjustable bolts on the pedal! he
adjusted the pedal and solved the mystery. 5 years and 167,000km's later...
I am happy to say that there has never been another problem with the car!
Not one issue, clutch or otherwise... it honestly has been a fantastic
I posted this story before on the group a couple of times, I have no doubt
that your problem is the same.
Good luck and happy driving.
Murban, looks indeed like the three of us were 'in the same boat', and my
own adjustments seem to take care 90 % of the problem. As long as I don't
drag race, so to speak, which isn't ever advisable. I basically nurse the
thing, to maximize my investment. The only thing harsh I do do is on the
open, flat expressways I do 90 mph when the weather and road surface
conditions are good.
I think it's taching out at about 4,200 at that speed. I try to avoid
holding engine speed when 'cruising' at 3,000 rpm. That seems to be an
uncomfortable harmonic to listen to. The 2002 Kia Rio has served me well and
has never left me stranded. It's not anything fancy but fills the bill when
I need "basic, dependable transportation".
I've had several vehicles (each with over 150k miles I've put on them) with
manual transmissions. I didn't want a small car with a three speed automatic
and a 1.5 liter engine, and having to PAY for an automatic transmission
too... what a gimmick.I've been able to sometimes talk a dealer out of
charging for an automatic when looking for a new car with manual, which is
not in stock...
Many, many thanks for sharing your stories!
Ron in FL
I took the car in and mentioned what I'd learned here. As soon as I said
I'd learned there was a simple adjustment to be made to the pedal, the
service manager perked up and asked if I had a thick snow-mat in my car. As
it happens, I did -- a very thick one. He said he'd seen the problem
before, he'd adjust the pedal (he did it for free) but that I mustn't
interfere with the pedal again. It needs the full range of motion, else
it's never completely disengaged and thus I'm chewing gears with every
The vehicle functions as expected now, so I'm a happy camper. Thanks for
the help, folks!
Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.