Axle Oil Seals in 90

To be honest, i always use 2 anyway.

Those seals always seem perticually flimsy to me!

Mark,

Can you tell me where you put the second seal. The HBOL only shows placement if one is used?

I assume you use the same part also.

Thanks for the quick response!!

RichardB

This is it

FRC3988

Bad practice! It reduces the capacity of the bolted joint - specifically by making it more prone to relax after initial tightening.

i.e. you'll lose more than the expected reduction in bolt tension and may end up with insufficient to keep the joint tight. One paper gasket is enough.

Gents,

I thought that what I had read was about rear hub seals and not gaskets? Some axles have two seals whilst some models only one. I am trying to sort out which my early 90 axle needs as I have found an outer hub seal mentioned as well as the inner one. The inner one is RTC3511 and the outer FRC8222 and as Mark say FRC3988 is the drive flange gasket.

Do I just need the inner one or do I need both?

Thanks,

RichardB

More ...

There are two oil seals - one inboard of the inner bearing and one outboard of the outer bearing plus the paper gasket for the drive flange.

I'm mailing you a piece of the manual, Richard.

Im good at that. :)

If you can find the axle number under the crud then you won't need to strip it to the one/s you want.

Up to axle number 22S08283B only has one seal RTC3511 and the same hub nut lockwasher as the series.

From axle number 22S08284B there are two seals as Dougal says, FRC8221 inner and FRC8222 outer which runs on a special spacer (FRC8227) between the bearing and the inner hub nut. This is similar to, if not the same, as the early Disco with a flat on the lockwasher and stub axle.

The wheel bearings are the same for both types (RTC3429 which is superceded to STC4382) but the stub axles are different.

If you can't find the axle number, you will only have to remove the hub drive plate and the first hub nut as the type of lockwasher will tell you which one it is. The one with the tag is the early one and the one with the flat is the later.

HTH Martin

Just a thought, Martin ... can you see enough of the end of the stub axle to determine which version you've got? It'll save disturbing the nut if you can.

Good thinking, I should have thought of that. Yes, of course you can see the flat or groove whichever on the stub, no need to see the lockwasher as the stub sticks out past the nuts. Old timer's disease, I'm losing it. :-)

Martin

Dougal,

Many thanks for the Email. Just what I needed!

Just need the hub spanner to see what lurks in my axle.

Richard

Martin,

Good information thanks. Not likely to find the number under the multiple layers of waxoyl and the like. I will have a look though. Any idea where on the axle I will find it?

RichardB

So, If I have understood this story so far I need to remove the Hub Driving Member / Flange and I will be able to see the end of the stub axle.

If it is flat I need the gear for two oil seals if it is round I need one....Simple when you know!

Really appreciate the help gents.

RichardB

Thinking even more about it (look at the sectioned view that I sent you)

- if you have an outer seal it, too, will be visible with the drive flange off.

The absence of the outer seal doesn't mean, of course, that it wasn't made with one which was never been replaced on some later occasion!

I'll have a look for both the seal and the type of stub axle - should be conclusive then

- in theory at least....

Have to be a good mechanic and not drip oil all over the new drive when I get started!

RichardB

I probably did not explain it right. If you look at the end of the stub axle one has a section of thread missing as a chord on a circle (about one sixth of the circumference) and the early type with only one seal has a notch cut out about 1/4" wide in line with the axle just like the old Series 1,2 and 3 type. Can you make sense of that? :-) And if you remove the drive plate you can see the outer seal on the later type with two.

The axle number is usually stamped towards the top of the case on the longer section in numbers and letters about 1/2" high.

Martin

Like this -

Or this -

Thanks for that Mark. I can see exactly what is need now.

I'll have a look at the notch / grove as well as the axle number.Life with a Land Rover does get complicated sometimes. My problem is that working from home I get itchy feet and want to and do stuff instead of what I should be doing....

RichardB