I'm replacing rotors (disks) and pads on a '95 Range Rover 4.0SE. The bracket that holds the calipers, bolts to the axle with a fastener that looks something like an external Torx (except more points) or a star-allen. The rear looks to be about 13mm diameter, the front maybe
Thanks
Try a 17mm 12 point socket on it. I think they are called star head; for obvious reasons.
I've no idea if they're the same or not, but the fronts on my 110 were
1/2". I had to buy a socket just for that. I think I may have used a 13mm on the rear when I did a wheel bearing, suppose I should have got the 1/2" socket then.On or around 20 Sep 2004 16:27:48 GMT, Simon Barr enlightened us thusly:
AFAIK they're 13mm 12-point star, and aren't quite inverse torx, they're inverse 12-point spline.
effectively, they allow a smaller bolt head which can nonetheless withstand high torque. In theory, that is,
13mm deep socket is the dog's wotnots for the caliper ones, 12-point one of course, as it gets the handle clear of the caliper itself. Expect them to be very tight, they normally I think get loctited when installed. Certainly do on Fords IME.
Apart from you want to get a 1/2" socket on the bolt heads because once you round them off with a loose socket you have a real big problem.....
They are/should be loctited and done up pretty tightly as well. I normally replace them as I hate looking at them when the heads are iffy.
Regards
William MacLeod
On or around Mon, 20 Sep 2004 17:02:54 GMT, William MacLeod enlightened us thusly:
since they're metric threads, I suspect they're supposed to be 13mm, however, a 1/2" will be a nice tight fit assuming it goes on properly. Might need persuading on with a hammer the first time.
A 13mm seemed a bit loose to me which is why I got the 1/2" socket. It was a much better fit than the metric one, which felt as if it might round the heads off if I pulled too hard.
Thanks for the help everyone.
FWIW... I got all four rotors on the RR done yesterday. On the rears a 1/2 inch 12 point deep-well socket fits just about perfect. On the fronts a 19mm 12point shallow-well socket works but is a bit loose. I don't have a torque number for either end, but neither seemed really excessive when they came off, the rears with a 3/8" breaker bar and the fronts with a 1/2" ratchet. The rear rotors came off easy, the fronts took some persuading. One of the rotor retaining bolts (phillips head) on the fronts required a chisel and small grinder to remove. The other three came off pretty easy (with a really big screwdriver). My, just slightly experienced, suggestions if you are doing the same job would include using anti-sieze on the threads and head of the rotor retaining bolt and around the hub flange (where the rotor seats). Also, spray some penetrating oil around the rotor retaining bolt and hub flange a day or so before starting the job.
Thanks again for all the help...
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