Diesel pump

Can anyone tell how to adjust the diesel pump on my 1980 series III. Just failed the MOT on the smoke test. Have been told it is pumping too much fuel. Thanks

Reply to
Bruce Somerton
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My old s3 had a screw and locknut arrangement on the back of the fuel pump. Screw in to increase fueling and out to decrease. Best to try half a turn at a time then test. You may need to adjust idle as well. This is assuming air filter is clean, tappets set ok and all other service items are OK. Austin may be able to give further guidance. TonyB

Reply to
TonyB

On or around Thu, 23 Jun 2005 20:39:26 +0000 (UTC), "TonyB" enlightened us thusly:

The SIII one is a CAV/Lucas, nesspar? The only one of they I've worked on had the fuelling adjustment right in the middle - undo a big plug on the side, diesel falls out, rotate pump 'til holes line up and insert 4mm allen key into the works, turn screw inside by about 1/4 turn. Pain in the arse, compared to the bosch ones.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

It's a CAV DPA type rotary pump. It may be overfuelling but it is more likely that the injectors need tweaking. Best advice from me is to pour a couple of bottles of Forte diesel additive in the tank, make sure the mesh in the oil bath air cleaner and the pipework allow plenty of air to pass, then screw the maximum revs screw back temporarily until the engine is limited to around 3000 instead of 4500 revs. This should do the trick and let you sail through with least expense. If more expensive work is needed, dig a hole and give it a decent burial.

Huw

Reply to
Huw

Also try running it on 50/50 paraffin/diesel, just while it is being tested.

Reply to
SimonJ

Ooher, you're probably right. I forgot mine had a replacement engine which was said to be a 2.25 LR lump but in reality it could have been anything. Mind you, my little Rover 418 has that sort of arrangement, removing solenoid first, jump back to avoid shoe full of diesel, then as you say. Takes about an hour, painful.

TonyB

Reply to
TonyB

Of course Simon's is not a serious suggestion in case the OP thinks it is. Screwing the revs back is perfectly permissible however and so is the Forte additive. A thousand fewer revs makes all the difference. A Series Land Rover is never going to be smoke free.

Huw

Reply to
Huw

Smoke free Series, is there one? LOL

You can wind back the pump, I have always let My Landy man (Rockingham Landys) do this when needed, as he always winds it back up to it's correct place after the MOT, but his MAIN trick is to drop off the fuel filter, empty and clean it, then fill the bowl with that diesel injector cleaner (Unipart DX is facking brilliant), then tip the rest in the tank and he then roars it up the very steep hill outside his workshop and watches all the gunge vanish out of the exhaust pipe.

Pretty well any Diesel injector flushy stuff should do the job, I just like that DX, I work at a garage that does MOT's, we put DX in the van every 5-6 months, other than that it's pretty well ignored and badly treated... A rep selling a miracle new flusher said we could nominate any vehichle to flush, and emiish test it either side.

Amazingly, we where all gob smacked the smokey diesel astra van passed the emmish tests with flying colours (1.2%), "new" stuff added, and van grannied around the local lanes like mad... New test... it had gone UP to 1.3%..... One very red faced smarmy sales rep

Reply to
4x4 Me

"4x4 Me" wrote >

Yep. I fill the filter with Forte additive but thought this rather too deep to post here in my initial reply. There are enough doubting Thomas's anyway.

Huw

Reply to
Huw

Erm........ Yes it is.

Reply to
SimonJ

On or around Fri, 24 Jun 2005 21:42:16 +0100, "Huw" enlightened us thusly:

interesting point, here - the instructions on the forte and other stuff are quite specific about adding it at low concentration to a tankful of juice; yet you get people often putting it neat into the filter. In most cases this is an emergency measure 'cos it's just failed the test, of course... However - will it have the same effect over a longer period by adding it to the fuel, as the makers claim?

Reply to
Austin Shackles

On or around Fri, 24 Jun 2005 22:58:39 +0000 (UTC), "SimonJ" enlightened us thusly:

There are various tricks. One is to advance the pump timing quite a bit. Make sure you mark where it's supposed to go back to, though.

Depends also on what smoke you're getting. If it's black/dark grey-blue smoke then it probably is overfuelling. Most old series motors I've seen make much blue smoke, which is mostly oil, probably, and is nothing to do with the setting of the pump.

Another thing is to make sure it's fully up to temperature before testing.

Backing off the max revs is the best bet though - if you have the right MOT-man, he'll do that in any case with a marginal engine, provided the ministry man isn't there watching. I've seen cat-equipped motors where the BET has been done at idle, not at 3000 revs :-) - as the bloke said, you can do it if the ministry aren't watching...

This was for one that was over-spec by a stupidly-small amount, not something like a dud cat.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

I can only speak for Forte which works as you say. I only very occasionally use it because its effect is relatively long term. I would use, equally effective but cheaper, ATF added to the tank but it is rather red. I do add ATF to older tractors fuel as needed to stop white smoke [incomplete combustion] at low revs. One treatment is effective for at least 12 months in most cases.

Huw

Reply to
Huw

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