I'm currently replacing the drive member(s)?? on the landy (defender 110
300TDi 1998). The reason being the front passenger side one gave up at the weekend. Great I've got the replacement, removed the bolts, and the C-Clip and the shims, lots of WD 40, it moves out a bit (1/4 to 1/2") but I just can get it past the C'clip groove. really. Any suggestions on the best way to get it off?Cheers David
On or around Mon, 27 Jun 2005 20:08:08 GMT, "dht@home" enlightened us thusly:
worn and misaligned splines? if wiggling it around and reasonable force won't get it off, I dunno what will, really. ISTR it should just slide off, once the clip and the shims are off it. Damaged splines could stick, I guess. You could cut through it with a lot of care and a thin cutting disc, either one side or more likely dametrically opposite. If you do that, then I recommend going down *almost* to the shaft, but not risking touching the shaft in case the shaft splines are OK - cut through mostly on opposite sides then clout it with a big hammer and a chisel to split it. Probably would be better to support it from underneath for the last phase.
Burrs on the C clip groove ? Try a piece of emery cloth to deburr the shaft.
Steve
I got it off in the end... yeah... no splines left on the shaft... boo... Oh well. Me thinks that all the drive members and their attached shafts are going to need replacing to solve this little problem... Still got a near vertical learning curve about the vehicle. Its amazing what you learn. This was the problem with the last no go situation!
Thanks for the help... Now any idea how much the shafts cost, my mechanic friend suggests that it could be upto =A3160 a side... bugger...
On or around 28 Jun 2005 10:42:52 -0700, "Dave" enlightened us thusly:
part of the CV joint, ain't it?
yeah, 'tis. Get 'em from Paddocks, while they're cheap - 25 quid a shot last I looked, and not bad gear.
make sure you get the right number of splines: read the axle number off the casing or pull one out and count the splines on the inside of the CVJ. Not a hard job, no need to split the swivels or anything, ISTR.
cough! Nearer £30.00 for rears, £45 for the front (those are actualy the CV joints on most vehicles except early Discovery I and Range Rover Classic). £6 or 8 for the dive flanges.
Richard
On or around Wed, 29 Jun 2005 07:44:10 +0000 (UTC), beamendsltd enlightened us thusly:
are your 45-quid CVJs better quality than Paddocks elcheapos? The verdict I've heard on the cheap ones from Paddock is along the lines of "they're OK for 25 quid" - in other words, not the best quality. But then again, you can buy a fair few 25-quid ones for the amount LR want for a genuine part.
Idle interest, natch. I'm just plotting to get rid of all the discos...
In due course (a month or so) we may be looking at selling a '95 300 TDi. Nice though it is, it's expensive to run for the amount of space inside, and is not really being used to full capacity. Such things as the Citroen Berlingo have as muhc interior space, considerably better fuel consumption and if you get the one with the HDi engine, only cost 135 a year in road tax.
I would guess that Paddocks got theirs from the same place as us a few months ago when a special offer was in place from the supplier, presumably they had a lorry load. We ran out of ours, but the ones that have come in since are in different packaging and we've never had a failure. Read into that what you will.
Richard
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