Steering Box Help Needed Please...

Hi all,

My 200Tdi 90 has just failed its MOT on the knackered steering pump and badly leaking steering box.

Steering pump isnt a problem because I can identify from engine and chassis numbers...

I have been told that the seal kits are a waste of time for the boxes and that I should drop a new / recon unit in.

Firstly New or Recon???

Secondly, my existing box has 6 bolts on the top (is this a Gemmer one???), the Adwest (OEM) ones seem to have 4? Is there a difference, should I get another 6 bolt? How makes the 6 bolt ones????

Please advise ASAP as I need to be backl on the road for the weekend.

Thanks Jon

Reply to
Jon
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On or around Mon, 27 Jun 2005 21:21:44 +0000 (UTC), Jon enlightened us thusly:

someone had a link for decently-priced (FSVO decent) recon boxes. Might've been a certain purple-101-owner.

ICBW, but I think you'll find that all the steering boxes fit all the vehicles and the differnces only matter if you're trying to get parts for a specific one.

There are differences in drop arms, but that's to do with the ball joint on the end of 'em. I'm not sure that all the 90s don't have the same one anyway.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

The seal kits are often a waste of time as the sector shaft (output shaft) often gets a groove in it where the seal rubs. If there is slot then a seal will do the trick (make sure you get a blue one).

A good recon is as good as a new one (ours have a 12 month warranty - no failures yet!) if done properly.

There are three types of box, usually refferred to by the number of bolts on the top - 3, 4 and 6-bolt. The 4 and 6-bolt types are interchangeable (Metric pipe fittings), the 3-bolt is not. If changing from a 6 to 4-bolt box the plumbing may or may not reach to the required places - it depends on the particular vehicle.

Richard

Reply to
beamendsltd

Austin,

Many thanks. I have spoken to the nice gentleman at Adwest and there is another one on its way to me.

Any pitfalls I need to be aware of regarding taking the old one off or putting a new one back on??

I thought I would remove the rad / oil cooler assembly and intercooler first simply to make access much easier but beyond that Ive bever had the steering bits appart.

Thanks Jon

Reply to
Jon

our disco failed its mot a few years ago on a leaking box (output shaft) I was told replacing the seals are a waste of time but thought I'd have a go anyway. The hardest part was getting the drop arm off - my puller wouldnt touch it so hired a 20T hydraulic one. That was four years ago and its still not leaking. Richard

Reply to
Richard

Very droll Austin, I'm heading that way myself....

Reply to
TonyB

so TonyB was, like...

Or, roughly, "those whom the gods wish to destroy, they first make mad."

By giving her/him a Land Rover to play with.

Reply to
Richard Brookman

Thanks for the pointers and advice everyone. Once again, much appreciated.

I now have a working steering pump and box (and an oily floor!!) and perhamps most important a new MOT certificate!

However, I now have another question...

As well as replacing the pump and box I also had to nip up the nearside front wheel bearing and also remove a shim from the same corner (to stop my wheel flopping about!).

Since putting on the new box and pump my steering, although very precise feels very light, especially when turning a corner - Round-abouts feel like im steering on ice but the vichle doesnt break away like on ice.

I have a feeling that this may be to do with pre load but arent sure.

I do not know what the pre-load is - just tightened / removed shims until I had no wobble, I think it should be about 7kg - 9kg. All I know is, with both wheels off the ground it takes both arms and a degree of effort to move them from lock to lock.

Any thoughts or pointers please - I need to do something because I was much happier driving with a floppy nearside front wheel and crappy steering!

Thanks Jon

Reply to
Jon

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