Flexible coupler and 2in lift

When you lift a landrover, it plays havoc with the geometry of it.

It changes all of the angles to do with the steering and suspension. You have effectively lowered the axle from the chassis by 2 inches, which has made the distance from the axle and the tx box greater, hence the prop is at full stretch, and tighter angle all the time - which is why it has eaten itself.

Ideally, you need get props which have a wider yolk. Im not sure if you can get props that are a tad longer?. This should sort the drive out. You could also do with getting some castor correcting radius / trailing arms to sort the geometry of the suspension.

Richard from Beamends will be able to sort you out with prices.

You should also check that the brake lines are long enough, specially if you do a lot of axle twisting off road.

I think you can also fit a rear prop from a 200TDi which has the UJ gubbins rather than the rubber coupler. You also need the spacer & pinion from a

200Tdi as well I think. Have a google.

Neil

On or around Sun, 19 Nov 2006 22:36:59 GMT, Robert enlightened us thusly:

probably you've got too much angle on it.

you might consider a propshaft with double-joints instead, or wide-yoke joints.

Thanks for the info, I will look into that.

Robert

Thanks. I do have the extended brake lines for the lift.

I will be fitting the castor corrected arms when I get some budget, as it has also made the steering very "jittery", and the radius arms should sort that out.

Robert

Robert Hi,

lifting your Disco by more than 1.5 inches will required some other bits also.

On most vehicles the alteration of operating angles of the front and rear propshafts and the increase of distance between the transfer box/center diff and the front and rear axles means that you may experience vibrations due to the altered angle of rotation and on a few occasions (especially when offroading and "hanging" the axles) due to the splines between the two parts of each respective propshaft reaching the end of their effective travel.

The only true solution is fitting a double cardan propshaft at the front and a wide-yoke one at the rear.

You may be able to escape the wide yoke rear one if you fit a secondhand rear propshaft from a 200Tdi discovery or Range Rover Classic together with the pinion spacer, plate to propshaft and securing bolt.

All the above have already been said by fellow members.

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Be careful when you fit the front radius arms. On some occasions they may make your diff look further down than required and they may NOT be compatible with the double cardan front propshaft.

You should speak with Roz or Colin at Scorpion Racing about the compatibility issue between the castor corrected radius arms AND the double cardan propshaft.

My advise is to first fit the rear wide yoke prop from SR or a secondhand

200Tdi Disco or RaRo Classic one from a scrappy (whichever is more cost effective) and then fit the double cardon front prop because vibration from the front prop also creates problem in the transmission components. The radius arms are NOT so necessary and after a while you will get used to the reduced steering feel and the reduction in the self centering action of your steering (all due to the alternation of the castor angle on your front axle's geometry settings) IF the angle of your diff relative to your propshaft (the double cardon) one allows it then fit the castor correcting radius arms but first speak with Roz or Colin and take your measurements.

One more thing to check for your "strange" steering is the condition of the bushings, trackend and the pressure of your tyres. The alteration of the castor angle MAY have made visible some tiny play in the above components (trackends and bushings) which were not so noticeable before due to the more precise feel of the steering.

Tyre pressure also is significant for the feel you get.

As a rule of thumb I never allow my friends to exceed +1" of suspension lift so as to avoide additional expenses for propshafts and radius arms. I believe that the best compromise is an EVO kit (lowering the shocks mounting points by 2 inches) and fitting a +1" suspension lift kit for those who wish to fit larger tyres (which I also do not advise but lots of people like them because of the more macho looks)

One more thing that you may need is a pair of rear trailing arms. The ones you have are now pushing the rear bushings to the chassis harder on one side (the one closer to the road) since the chassis is elevated compared to its prior height. The cranked trailing arms restore the proper sitting of the trailing arms face relative to the bushing and this allows them to live longer and also allow your suspension to have a bit more travel.

Hope this helps Take care Pantelis (who also happens to be SR's representative in Greece)

The main reason for larger tyres is to increase ground clearance under the diffs. In some parts of the world (here in NZ being a good example) a lot of the offroad tracks require a 33" or larger diameter tyre to avoid getting the diff hung up on rocks.

The vast majority of 2" lift kits are actually 40mm on the front, and 50mm on the rear, or even 30mm front and 40mm rear - Bearmach, Britpart, Old Man Emu etc.

Richard