Help! Injector clamp stud sheared

Any stud CAN be extracted.. "Easy"way is to drill and retap, hard way (least destruction) is to spark it out with an EDM.

Which engine ? Stud broken flush with the surface ?

Steve

Hi,

Engine is 300Tdi. Stud still protrudes about 10mm, but access is tricky - the cylinder head is sculpted around the injector.

Cheers! Graham

If you've still got 10mm of stud protruding just clean up the thread, put on two nuts (if necessary cut down) and unthread with a spanner using the bottom nut.

Regards

William MacLeod

perhaps after lagging the entire shebang in penetrating oil (plusgas maybe) for a day or two.

if it's stuck fast there's a good risk of stripping the thread from the head.

Or, put a nut over the end of the thread and weld on to stud with a mig on a fairly high power setting and unscrew whilst still hot. Works every time, for me at least. Badger.

Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately, this stud is shaped. You have a thread that goes into the head (I assume). This has like a flange so it goes in the correct distance. The bit that sicks out then is shaped, and has a waistlike section without any threads, and then there is the thread for the clamp nut.

So stud protruding doesn't have any threads, and is about 3/4 the diameter of the rest of the stud.

My thoughts are a professional stud extractor or weld a nut onto it!

Cheers! Graham

maybe welding on a bolt or t-piece (rather than a nut) if there's enough room in the immediate location.

In article , Graham Carter writes

The latter. At least to start with. Yer proper stud extractor won't do it either if it's just round bar.

And an afterthought which is probably obvious: block the hole up before using the welder. having a lump of spatter rattling around inside won't improve performance but would be a pig to remove (or should that be boar

- see another thread)

Regards,

Simonm.

I'll second that.

Also, contrary to another post here, if you've got enough room for it a stud extractor will remove the remaining piece.

Thanks for the advice on removing the stud. Anyone out there got a parts manual for the 300Tdi. I need to confirm that I can actually get a replacement stud.

When you look at the cylinder head, you have the injector, then a threaded stud (the bit that has broken), and then a small dowel. The clamp fits round the injector flats at one end, rests on the dowel at the other end. The broken stud goes through the middle of the clamp, and a nut is used to clamp the injector in place.

I have had a look on a few sites (Richard's at Bearmend's is one of the best, shame he can't ship to me here in Zimbabwe (problem with insurance)) and there is a part "ERR1019 - Stud - Injector Clamp". Can anyone with a parts manual confirm that this is the right part?

Cheers Graham

On or around Fri, 06 Jan 2006 07:47:37 +1300, EMB enlightened us thusly:

yep. done it on a sheared-flush head bolt on a V8, also done it on locking wheelnuts on the car which some brain-stillborn type had done up far too tight, with the result that the pins in the key sheared when trying to get the wheels off. W**kers everywhere, when you look.

Also applies the weld technique to a very tricky littel one in a thermostat housing on a Reliant 700cc engine. In that case, I used a gas torch and built up the sheared stud (flush again) with welding rod, before welding a nut to it. 'twas too small to get a mig to in that case. Either that or it might have been before I got the mig...

You can get one made locally - it doesn't need to be more than a short length of studding.

Steve

It is the right stud.

Richard

Thanks Richard.

Knowing that, I went along to a Land Rover independent here in Zim. They didn't have a new one but found me a second hand one.

All I've got to do now is get the old stud out!

I'll let the group know the results.

Cheers! Graham Carter

A result!!!

Thanks again for all the advice on stud removal. In the end, it came out really easily. The stud (part ERR1019) has a flange to stop it being screwed too far into the head. Then there is a narrow section (like a waist) before the outer set of threads the clam goes through. The stud broke in the waisted section.

By removing the injector, and the pipes for No 1 and 2 injectors, I could actually get a grip on the flange with a pair of grips. The stud loosened without a struggle!!! So I didn't need to find a welder or extractor. Obviously these studs are designed to be like this. Maybe to stop overtightening and warping the head.

Cheers everyone. Happy 2006 to you all. Graham Carter

On or around Sat, 7 Jan 2006 09:46:43 +0200, "Graham Carter" enlightened us thusly:

today... bet next week it's 550,000 :-)

wonder how long that's gonna last - shades of the german economy before WWII, and people carrying their pay home in wheelbarrows. If you didn't spend it within a few days it was worthless.

...and Graham Carter spake unto the tribes of Usenet, saying...

Is that good or bad?

On or around Sat, 7 Jan 2006 17:31:59 -0000, "Richard Brookman" enlightened us thusly:

they've got inflation there ATM, AIUI. make sour currency look megastable. not sure they've got to the stage the Weimar replublic had in the 30s yet.

...and Austin Shackles spake unto the tribes of Usenet, saying...

I dunno about their inflation rate. It just that a figure of half a million and the word "only" didn't seem to sit well together!

Wheelbarrow time.