Land Rover Discovery gearing advice needed

Sounds like alot of work, unless you tow more often than not I'd stick to using the lever to select 3rd. Either that or floor the throttle to keep it kicked down again when required.

Compute the effect of changing the profile of the tyres. Wheels can quickly be swapped if you only need the extra grunt occasionally.

Lee D

swap the auto box to a manual box then no torque converter to worry about but as lee said a different tyre profile might help or do what my bro did to his old 69 merc auto with eletric kickdown make a kickdown button on your dash or stearing wheel made the old merc alot better kickdown at half thottle mrx7

mrx7? wrote in news:NOr3o.1757$ snipped-for-privacy@viwinnwfe02.internal.bigpond.com:

Problem is, the LR manual fitted to Discoveries is too weak to tow with. Kick down is no worry as you can easily move the gear down one.

You might find that a 1.4 transfer from a Defender will help. (Discovery transfer ratio is 1.2). If you want to get excited, you can buy the gears and just transplant them into yours - depends if you're mechanically inclined. It maybe cheaper to do a gear change rather than a whole transfer.

Craig, Qld.

CraigB wrote in news:cTK3o.1887$ snipped-for-privacy@viwinnwfe01.internal.bigpond.com:

Thanks Craig,

M.R.Automotive in Redcliffe have quoted $3,900 for a new 1.4 transfer case, fitted!

I haven't asked British Off Road at Forest Glen as yet.

Although I have done a lot of mechanical work on Jaguars,etc, the transfer case I'll leave to the experts :)

I guess if I wasn't so lazy, I could buy a second hand one from Jag-Rover Spares in Kelvin Grove and fit it myself.

Cheers, Ron

I'd have though swapping the transfer case, or gears would not be too dificult.

OK, you'r in Oz, but it'd be good to email Ashcrofts in Luton (UK)

ask their advice. snipped-for-privacy@ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk Or call them (during UK day time!) +44 1582 496040

They may even be able to recomend someone local to you do do the work, at a better price, I know they deal with people all over the place.

I have no connection with them, other than as a very satisfied customer. One of the few "no BS spoken here" companies I've found. Good people too.

Regards.

Dave B.

More info from Aschcrofts, re transmission ratios etc...

Dave B.

Mr Dave Baxter wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@aioe.org:

transplant

Many thanks, Dave :)

LRO have a feature on transfer gear swapping either this month or was it last month - made the job seem not to daunting..

"Tony L" wrote in news:fRd4o.234797$NM4.17665@hurricane:

Thanks Tony, I'll have a look.

As an alternative to all the suggestions already given, here's another. Break into the gearbox loom and identify the CCLV solenoid wires (Convertor Clutch Lock Valve) and break into one of the wires, running new wires up to a switch inside the vehicle. That way, even if the computer tells the convertor to "Lock-Up", you can inhibit it and use it as an overdrive button at your discretion. Cheaper and simpler than replacing a transfer box, easier in use than wheel swapping (which will upset your speedometer as well) and infinitely more controllable. Sorry I can't help with the wiring colours as I don't have a 4HP22EH box in the workshop to look at, but Ashcroft may be able to help you with pin-out number on the multiplug or a colour code. Badger.

"Badger" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@bt.com:

Hi Badger,

That would hve been my first choice if it was that easy. Unfortunately, the D1 has a hydraulic torque convertor lock, and that IS the problem :)

Cheers, Ron

Ah, sorry, I was thinking DII. Ok, in that case take the gearbox sump off and remove the complete valve block (from memory, 12 T27 torx screws, manuals show which screws hold the valve block to the body) find the control valving for the CCLV and Hysteresis valves on the upper side of the valve block and pack the respective springs with a shim of about 2mm - that should push the lock up from 50mph to nearly 60mph. It's a bit trial and error as to how thick a shim you use, but the important thing is to do both the CCLV and Hysteresis valves by the same amount. It's cheap, just takes about an hor or two to do, and of course the oil! Badger.

"Badger" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@bt.com:

Many thanks, Badger.

That sounds like a far better idea :)

One thing I did not think about was that torque lock up, when considering a transfer case swap. Changing to a 1.4 would mean the torque convertor would lock at 75kph instead of 81, and that would be worse!

I think I'll go for the mod you mentioned.

Cheers, Ron