Does anyone have any recommendations for fitting tie-down points in the back of a 110? I'd like to shift some dive cylinders around, but I'd really, really rather they didn't rattle around when I'm doing so...
Most of the ideas I've had to date would involve bolting through thin sheet metal, and that isn't going to hold.
Help?
TIA,
Peter
Twas 23 Apr 2004 02:07:26 -0700 when snipped-for-privacy@my-deja.com (Peter) put finger to keyboard producing:
how about a strip of steel under the floor with some of those O bolts through to it? you know the ones, just like a bolt but with an O ring welded upright to the top, bolted through to the strip of steel running underneath, then ratchet strap or bungee to them.
-- Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.) ___________________________________________________________ "To know the character of a man, give him anonymity" - Mr.Nice.
Yes, that's the basic idea. My old lightweight is fitted with tie-down points, but they're shaped more like staples, held with two bolts.
You may find something similar in hardware stores. It isn't as intrusive as an eyebolt. I think similar fixings are still used on trucks for some stuff.
The steel plate is a known problem -- electrolytic corrosion -- but I wouldn't know what was the best material.
Might be worth a trip to B&Q. From memory they have a rack of metal strip profiles in alloys, flats, ovals, L-shapes, etc and it might be possible to use one of these under the floor to bolt through to. (I was reminded of these by your mention of diving cylinders; I used some of these B&Q bits of metal to make a custom twin-set once, and wanted something that wouldn't rust in sea water.)
(I also wonder about the potential of exhaust pipe clamps, some of which come as big staples with threaded ends. I'm also sure I've seen fancy tie down points advertised in the land rover magazines - sorry can't remember who was doing them.)
Good luck.
M.
On or around 23 Apr 2004 02:07:26 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@my-deja.com (Peter) enlightened us thusly:
re-inforcing underneath, same as you do with seatbelts.
Go to a scrap yard and look in the back of old Ford Transit vans. You'll need a large 'Torx' or starshaped screw driver to remove them. Brilliant tie downs these.
I have my small welding bottles fixed to the bulkhead with the spare straps for my lpg installation. I have the square hollow section which was also left over on the other side of the bulkhead. The bottles sit on the floor and against some shaped 2" wooden planks against the bulkhead to keep them vertical.
AJH
That little lot gives me some useful suggestions, thanks!
I think I must have been having a Doh! moment not to think of just slapping some reinforcing in underneath - I ought to have a look at what is required for seatbelt reinforcement. Isolation I think I can do with a suitable interface layer - even WaxOyl would be better than nothing, but I've got some interesting epoxy paint that might suit.
As for B&Q's metal selection - well, they sell the stuff in manageable quantities, but... Most of it is hot rolled stuff, from what I remember, and quite pricy (not to mention never in the sizes I want!). I don't remember seeing anything in stainless there - and if they do, can you imagine trying to find out *what* stainless it was? "Hello, is this a ferritic or austenitic stainless?" Argh. Actually, that one would be an easy one to find out.
I could probably forge something interesting to do the job...
Thanks again,
Peter
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