I have an intermittent EAS fault 2000MY P38. The suspension usually raises quite quickly (within 1 minute driving from access) but occasionally (usually when the vehicle has not been used for a while or in cold temperatures) takes up to 5 miles driving and has timed out and locked up with the dash warning. I'm told its a blocked OSF "valve" which would be GBP53 plus an hours labour. A new ride sensor has also been fitted on this corner as per previous testbook fault codes. Will fitting a new valve cure it or is this the start of lots of similar problems? What would be the best course of action?
Check the air pump motor. A bit of a known weak spot. There are good correctly re-built units about. Also, raise it to it's max height, and check for leaks.
I think there is a way to persuade it to stay at that height when you switch the engine off, so you can hear any leaks. Sometimes one or more airbags can have a small hole, that is partly covered at the normal ride height, but any leak will work the compressor hard.
From the little of those I know about, they are not dificult to work on, but you'll need some guidance, perhaps from a good localy recomended indipendant workshop?
Sadly, the P38 does not have a good reputation for reliability. Pitty, 'cos when they are working, they are nice car's.
Yes thanks for that Dave. I've had it from new and covered only 72k so can vouch for mostly good reliability until now. The springs are definately not leaking and the compressor is fine also. I don't want to move to an L322 just yet but I need a reliable car. I have heard the suspension causes more problems than anything else on these so hope this is not the thin end of the wedge.
The other thought, is with the car powered down, check all the electrical connections, especially the sensor plugs/sockets etc.
Electronics in general is very reilable, however, such systems rely on good information given to them to "do the right thing", and if there is some duff or flakey signals coming in (because of a bad connection) though there is usually contingency software within the systems to try and clean up the signal, or "aproximate" it from other info, that can only do so much.
Oh... And as graphicly illustrated at the end of one Abingdon 4x4 event, don't open the doors, if you get a P38 stuck in deep water. All the clever bits are under the drivers seat, and are not waterproof!
I'd never seen a car "blow it's mind" before, that was spectacular to say the least. Every system going haywire, and the engine cranking uncontrolably (but not running.) Lights flashing in odd ways, wipers, windows, door locks, the lot were totally freaked out. We just dis'd the battery, and stuck it on a trailer to get back to camp. It came back to life just fine though. After it was back at camp and the ECU's were removed, striped out, washed in clean water, and dried in a camper oven on low heat. (45 mins, gas mark 2 or something?) Much to everyones amazement, after a few management reset's it burst back into life and everything worked again. (Well done "Mike W".) No one was expecting that good a repair.
Like I said before, nice car's when everything works. I suspect they are a hackers paradise, but I don't have the space (or time) for one.
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