EAS Fault

I've got a 2000 HSE 4.6 with 38,000 miles. Four months ago the dash read EAS Fault. Took to the dealer and $2,500 later I had new air shocks, etc. 60 days later EAS Fault returned. Dealer said I needed new battery. 30 days later EAS fault returned and dealer said I need new control module. EAS fault just returned (3 weeks after control module replace). HELP!!!!!

Anyone have any thoughts?

Scott

Reply to
Scott
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Let me see. New valve block, some pressure sensors, an air spring or two, another valve block under the warrantee on the previous repair, a position sensor or maybe two, I'm loosing track. These days the dealer just resets the fault codes and it goes for another couple of months before dropping back to 35mph mode.

22 months and counting and I suspect the previous owner had the fault as the parts changed were all relatively new.

I now have a supplementary device that cuts into the air lines to the springs and lets me blow them up manually so I keep a scuba tank with valve gear in the back. The one thing I need never be short of is compressed air.

Yes. It sucks. If you get a permanent fix let me know what it was....

nigelH

1996 4.6 HSE

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Reply to
Nigel Hewitt

On Mon, 6 Mar 2006 13:13:33 -0000, "Nigel Hewitt" wrote: A friends Disco 2 had a similar problem and being a mountain biker he shoved some tire slime into the bags. Has since sold the vehicle, but reported no problems useing this fix.

Regards Stephen

Reply to
fanie

Sadly that wouldn't be a fix for mine. With the valve block unpowered I can pump the 4 bags up and they take a week to sag so no leak.

I think it's a software bug but then I'm an embedded systems programmer so most of the Rangie CPUs look like a bug-fest to me.

My guess is that it is seeing a glitch cause by the sensors getting old and instead of doing a second take it screams, waves its hands in the air and hides under the bed.

I'm looking to find an EAS ECU I can pull to bits and see if I can make any sense of its gizzards. Since this might be impossible on a simple time scale I don't want to pay list for something I may trash. I'm watching Ebay hopefully.

nigelH

Reply to
Nigel Hewitt

Wiring? If the bits at the end are new, the bits in between aren't and you get the same symptons I'd be looking very very very closely at the bits that were the same both times. Maybe see if you can get an auto electrician to look at it as opposed to a dealer zombie who just plugged in his computer.

Regards

William MacLeod

Reply to
willie

I'd be surpised in there are many, if any, serious bugs. ECU softawre and hardware is considered mission, if not safety, critical (depending on application, obvioulsy the heater not working is "trivial") with all the design proofs and testing that is associated with it - I've done it in the automotive sector and it dull work.

Sort of. For faults that can have adverse effects on the vehicle performance (as in being drivable, not go-faster) or safety the usual tactic is to log a soft fault on the first n events, and if the fault does not clear then log a hard fault that can be dealt with appropriately - unfortunately this sometomes means going into limp-home which some engineers take to mean very much reduced performance - not good in the middle of the Sahara (my peronal opinion was that the default should be limp home, with an option to accept damage and override).

I've not worked on the EAS, but I'd bet all the interesting stuff is in software. If it were a Lucas ECU then, with appropriate access meothods, it is possible to examine everything inside the memory - Bosch and some others allow no access at all except through diagnostics, which are not very comprehensive. There is also sometimes sequetial logic employed to prevent reverse engineering techniques being used on the hardware side.

Richard

Reply to
beamendsltd

Humm... Collapse to 35mph mode and when the dealer resets the fault code it all works perfectly for two months is hardly a 'mission critical' philosophy in my book. OK so maybe the HSE isn't targeted as backwoods truck but that sort of thing could be plain annoying in the middle of one of those 'boulder strewn riverbeds' mentioned in the user guide.

That's what I'd like to add. A push-to-reset button so I can have another two months would be nice.

Sadly agreed. While it is usually impossible to keep somebody out who really wants in it isn't difficult to make it too hard for even a professional in his spare time with all the gear to bother. I really don't think there is anything clever in the stupid box so I may just get annoyed and give up but I'd like to try. The problem is that without a fix I can't even sell the truck with a clear conscience.

Anyway I found a box and I've paid for it so when it shows up and comes to pieces on the bench I will know what I'm dealing with. I'll report back. There has got to be some pay back for 30 years working in high reliability embeded systems - that's mostly death support rather than life support as it pays better.

nigelH

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Reply to
Nigel Hewitt

Sadly this didn't fix mine. Apparantly the second valve block (no charge under warrentee) was put in on the advice of LR's dealer support but it didn't fix things either. My dealer is trying hard but we aren't there yet.

nigelH

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Reply to
Nigel Hewitt

On or around Tue, 7 Mar 2006 10:04:41 -0000, "Nigel Hewitt" enlightened us thusly:

likesay, in theory. sadly, at least sometimes, the dealer simply charges 4 times as much for the same results that Bert's Dodgy Motors achieve.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

So I took the vehicle back to the Dealer.......They called today and said that their mechanics were working through the issue with engineers at the factory. Hey.. As least the story is a new one!

Will keep posting as to what they find.

Scott

Reply to
s

Here is another good one! The dealer gave me an LR3 with 4,000 miles and a cracked windsheild as a loaner while they try to figure out the EAS problems. Seems driving the LR3 for about 30 minutes results in a lit dash yellow light that looks like a gear with an ! coming on. I looked in the manual and it says the transmission is overheating. Hmmmmm.....maybe they forgot to check the fluids. Doesn't give me a warm and fuzzy......

Scott

Reply to
s

The message from "Scott" contains these words:

I have no experience of HSE only classic but a problem which used to come up was poor connection of height sensor it's dear little plug was constantly bombarded with s**te from the wheel (especially rear) and it would alter the circuit resistance, the height sensors were simple earthed potentiometers so brain was misinformed and went ape. another problem was drivers door open sensor.

Reply to
Warwick Barnes

The message from "Scott" contains these words:

Does the dealer actually have testbook and a pressure gauge? What faults is testbook reporting?

Andy

Reply to
Andy Cunningham

For those of you following my thread, re: EAS Fault, well I finally got the vechicle back from the dealer. They said after speaking with the 'engineers at the factory', they suggest that it is likely the valve block that is the problem. They said that the valve block may be getting damp and they put in a Dryer assembly ($65). They said if that doesn't solve the problem then they will have to put in a new vavle block for $1,000.

Did this solve the problem? Well, I'm not convinced. Let me explain the current behavior: I noticed intermittenly when I return to my vehicle and start it up, the EAS dash lights show that the vehicle has dropped to the lowest level (of the four possible). This only happens occasionally. Here is the 'WEIRD' part. I just noticed that when I park the vehicle and move the Transmission lever from Drive to Park, the lights on the EAS control sometimes move. Sometimes when I go from drive to park, the light moves from normal to highway driving. Sometimes it moves from normal to both Elevated and Highway driving at the same time. If I move the shifter slowly it stays in the normal position.

Sounds like an electrical problem to me ....ANY THOUGHTS???????

thanks,

Scott

Reply to
s

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