Rust-proofing Defender (door pillars)

I'm planning on doing some rust-proofing to my 1987 110. It's pretty much rust-free but there are a few spots that have a bit of surface rust and that I want to get at with POR-15 before applying some rust-proofing substance (I live in Canada so Waxoyl is not commonly used here, but there are many alternatives in specialized rust-proofing shops).

I am wondering if anything can be done to apply rust-proofing to the inside of the door pillars (which I understand are an aread prone to rust). I thought of having a couple of holes drilled (covered with a plastic plug) on the outside, halfway up the pillar, and having some rust-proofing oil shot in there. Are there simpler or more elegant solutions? Or should I just leave it alone?

Obviously, I'll have oil sprayed inside all the frame holes.

In addition, I'll get rust-proofing blown into the door bottoms (by drilling holes on the sides of the door frames, covering them up with a plastic plug). This drilling, spraying and plugging is a common way to apply rust-proofing to inner body recesses, by rust-proofing shops in Canada.

If I lived in the UK, I'd likely take my 100 to Before-N-After: they seem to do an outstanding job of rust-proofing. I doubt that any shop in Canada could do as good a job on a Land-Rover.

Reply to
rastlouis
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All my experience is of series motors, but i dont think theres much difference between bulkheads...

If you take the wing off you will expose all the holes where the wing fixings attach. The wing is held on with speed clips that are clipped onto the bulkhead. They clip on the edges of square holes. These should be big enough for you to get some sort of spraying device through fairly easily and should give you pretty good coverage.

When i waxoyl'd mine you can get a sprayed with a long probe on it for poking inside bits of metalwork. That should work on the bulkhead.

I also waxoyld my bulkhead with it off the vehicle. Tis easy to fill it up with rustproofer when you can turn it upside down and on its side to do so! :)

Reply to
Tom Woods

Take the front door hinges off and you have your ready made holes! No need to drill there. However, I'd be tempted to drill the front of the bulkhead below the windscreen hinge and plug it afterwards as that area seems to get it bad.

Good :)

Have you seen what the price would be in $? I've seen the jobs done by specialist rust proofing shops in Canada and the before-n-after jobs, find a good one locally, point out the rust spots that are common in 110s (easily available doing a search on this NG!) and you're laughing. Get it done every year and you're laughing.

Regards

William MacLeod

Reply to
William MacLeod

Thanks for the advice guys! I hadn't thought of using the door hinge holes as entry points for rustproofing. ALso, I need to take off the left wing soon (to replace the clutch master cylinder as I want to take the whole pedal assembly off in one shot), so can use the fender mounting holes for the same purpose.

Indeed, rustproofing shops are plentiful in Canada, and though they don't use Waxoyl, they use equally effective oil-based products so if they're shown the trouble spots and told to spray there, it should be fine. I've used Rust Check on my cars for years with good success.

Cheers!

Reply to
rastlouis

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