Series wheel nuts

Sep 09, 2004 24 Replies

I've fitted a set of silver modulars to the Series 2a (to go with the



235/85s), using the original wheel nuts. The nuts don't seem to seat properly in the holes in the rims, and even fully tightened there is about 2-3mm of thread inside the nut that is still visible. They are on at the unofficial torque setting (effin tight), and after a few miles they seem to be staying tight. However, I have identical wheels on the trialler (90 axles and nuts) and the nuts seat correctly on that. Are series wheel nuts a different shape (i.e. a different taper), or have I missed something?

Anyone know the correct torque setting, BTW?



Cheers



Rich Series 2a 88" RR 4.6 V8 Tiggrr V8 trialler The rest


Series wheel studs come in two varieties - 9/16BSF up to S2a and 16mm S3. There are three varieties of nut - double sided 9/16BSF up to very late S2a, Single sided 9/16BSF with 26mm AF (rare) very late S2a, and 16mm,

26mmAF, S3, same as 90/110 & Defender (except alloy wheels and Wolf).

I would guess that what you are noticing is the different nuts/studs - I think the single sided nuts are designed for thicker wheels than the double sided ones, although even with the standard wheels the double sided nuts extend slightly beyond the end of the studs. JD

Blimey! I just though they were wheel nuts! I haven't measured them, but to the eye they look identical to the ones on the 90. With the original

6.00 rims they were more or less flush, which is why I thought they might be wrong. I don't get the single/double sided business (they just look like wheel nuts), but what it looks like to me is that they need a slightly steeper taper so that they seat more completely in the hole in the rim. At the moment thay are not fully inside, if you know what I mean. Any idea on the torque setting? Haynes is silent.

SII and early IIA have wheelnuts with tapers on both ends, so it doesn't matter which way round you put the nut on.

Alex

On or around Thu, 09 Sep 2004 21:42:49 +1000, JD enlightened us thusly:

ITYM 27mm. they are on mine, anyway, both the "steel wheel" nuts and the "alloy wheel" ones.

I think you're right Austin - 1 1/16" socket fits which is 27mm.

Indeed, the earlier ones are 15/16". I tend to carry both with my wheelbrace.

Alex

Seems that everyone has gone off at a tangent here... It's not the wheel nuts that have been changed - just the wheels!

Try comparing the two wheels. There are also different stud lengths around which could explain the difference between the trailler and the 2A.

David

Seems that everyone has gone off at a tangent here... It's not the wheel nuts that have been changed - just the wheels!

Try comparing the two wheels. There are also different stud lengths around which could explain the difference between the trialler and the 2A.

David

Seems that everyone has gone off at a tangent here... It's not the wheel nuts that have been changed - just the wheels!

Try comparing the two wheels. There are also different stud lengths around which could explain the difference between the trialler and the 2A.

David

On or around Fri, 10 Sep 2004 09:11:27 +1200, EMB enlightened us thusly:

I use a 27mm diesel injector socket, mainly 'cos I had it for getting some injectors out of something. But it's ideal for wheelnuts, being a deep single-hex one.

Ah, thanks. This is a (very) late 2a, built on the last day of series 2 production. It has "normal" wheel nuts, with a taper on one side only.

Hi David.

Stud lengths may be different (haven't checked, it's raining) and the new wheels are made of thicker metal, so this may account for some of it. However, and I perhaps should have made this clearer in my OP, the series nuts are not seating properly in the holes in the rim. As you screw them on, the outer edge of the nut contacts the rim first and that's where all the pressure is when they are fully tight. The tapers don't seem to match, which is why I asked if series wheel nuts were a different shape from the later ones.

On or around Fri, 10 Sep 2004 08:58:51 +0000 (UTC), "Richard Brookman" enlightened us thusly:

I had some white 8-spokes on the 110, and they were a) thicker material and b) had much less of a taper on 'em. They seemed to stay on though.

and WRT whoever was asking for wheelnut torque - on the later (16mm) ones I tend to use 100 ft-lb. buggered if I know what the book says.

AFAIK not as my LR parts supplier only stocks one wheelnut for the metric Series and Defender.

I'm trying to remember wether I had this problem with my 8-spokes when they were on my IIA, they're now on my later III, which has the later nuts anyway.

I'd get a spare wheelnut and adjust the taper with an angle grinder, if I was that worried.

Alex

My 8 spokes seem to stay in place, and seat properly. I have one 2A axle, and one series 3, and have never noitced any difference in how they go on. (the 2A axle has double ended nuts until i get round to swapping them for a set of single sided ones).

OK, it stopped raining, so I went out and checked. The S2a nuts are

*identical* to the 90, so it must just be that the studs are shorter. The polished area of the nuts suggests that they are seating properly after all - although they still look "wrong". Thanks for the suggestions.

BTW, given the difficulty of getting an angle grinder to reshape something as small as a wheelnut, and multiply by 20, I can't think of a worse way of spending a weekend :-)

Cheers - issue filed as "just one of those things".

Especially for the saving of 7.28 inc VAT! ;-)

Richard

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