Charging System Diagnosis

1997 Ford Escort 1.4. Battery is not getting charged, even though warning light is not showing a problem (ie it lights up at turn of ignition key and goes out when engine running). Interesting journey home last night, trying to eke out the battery by avoiding using lights, windscreen wipers, even indicators.

My Haynes manual sugests the following alternator suspects: - worn brushes - weak brush springs - faulty voltage regulator or diode - severed phase winding - worn or damaged slip rings

HOWEVER...the problem appeared immediately after the car had been into MrClutch for a new clutch to be fitted. Is there anything they could have inadvertently done which might give the same symptons? Such as a wiring connection? I'll be diving under the bonnet tonight, if it stops bucketing down, and it would be useful to have a few pointers as to the likely culprit.

All theories gratefully received....

Steve

Reply to
Steve W
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Well, they have to move the starter to remove the gearbox, so my money is on something being not replaced/not tightened/shorted/trapped in that vicinity.

Of course I could be doing Mr clutch a disservice, but somehow I doubt it.

Steve (not you, the other one)

Reply to
shazzbat

hi steve. i sounds as though it is not giving the amps to run everything.

tighten up the fanbelt.. failing that it may need a newbelt.. i doubt it is the alternator under the curcumstances

Reply to
aussie bongo

Had run ins with these charactors some years back , not the best advert for car mechanics they have probably dislodged a cable connection , not reconnected an earth strap or trapped wires , cowboys come to mind

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Reply to
Steve Robinson

First thing to do is measure the voltage across the battery to ascertain if the alternator *is* charging. With the engine at a fast idle it should be something like 13.8 - 14.4 volts.

The alternator has usually just one plug on the back, and this is easily checked for being plugged in - as would be those which have screw connectors etc. As would any damage to the alternator output cable. If the engine turns over on the starter ok with a fresh battery you can assume the engine earth is fine.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

On the 'Scrote, the alternator output lead runs from the alt to the starter where it is sandwiched under the main battery feed wire on the starter solonoid- its a brown wire. Thus a disconnection here will result in light going off as per normal, but no power reaching the battery.

Tim..

Reply to
Tim..

Thanks to all who replied. Fortunately a simple problem in the end. The output lead from the alternator had broken at the crimped connector, due to corrosion. Quite conceivable that the final coup de gras was a knock it got at Mr Clutch, but in all conscience I can't really blame them. And the clutch is fine!

Now, do I need to buy a new cable with end connectors already fitted, or can I trim back the cable and fit a new end connector myself? These are quite a bit bigger than the standard crimped cable connectors you can buy in kits. I'll check in the local Autoparts store tomorrow. Goodnight all.

Steve

Reply to
Steve W

If this is the end at the alternator, i.e. the plug with two large and one small lucar terminals, you can get a kit consisting of the three terminals and the plug. Should be available at most factors, certainly is at Lucas if you've one near you. Helps if you've already got a crimping tool.

Steve

Reply to
shazzbat

To make a crimp correctly you really need the correct tool - and for this size they're expensive. With a bit of luck a good accessory shop will have a suitable cable ready made.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

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