Ford Focus not starting when warm

Have you tried just directly powering the fuel pump, then you will know whether it is definitely lack of fuel. Or run a pressure test on the fuel system when it will not start.

First thought for your symptoms would usually be crank sensor rather than fuel.

Last time I had this happen was years ago with an Hillman Imp. After trying absolutely everything it turned out to be a blocked jet in the carb'. One jet came in to start the engine and the blocked one took over after the engine was warm. Unblocking the jet cured it. I found out this was standard practice with most makes of carb'. I've no idea if things were done the same way in 2001 but I'd go for carb' trouble.

Almost impossible to get the fault to occur when the car is in my driveway - it usually happens away from home - and in the rain (only because it hasn't stopped raining this year)

Thanks - you are the second person to suggest this today.

carbs on new cars disappeared in the early 90s

On 10/02/2014 20:50, Mrcheerful wrote: .

Lol thx.

carbs on new cars disappeared in the early 90s

Took me a while to work out why I couldn't find the Autochoke on my Astra.

Gareth.

critcher said........ my 2002 1.6 petrol focus always started on the first pull, then after having a service the engine now requires a pull of 3-4 secs, as if the fuel is not available for a few moments. Mind you it has done 142,000 miles and is very near to retirement.

You know, you don't need to preface your own replies with "critcher said". That task is performed by most (if not all) news clients. (See the top of this message).

A recoil starter on your car?? ;-)

Tim

my A35 had a pull starter knob. probably early moggy minors too.

As did my A40 Somerset. Once, whilst teaching an inept friend to drive, he stalled at a junction. In a panic, he pulled the starter knob so hard, the cable came off the solenoid. To my amazement, he just kept pulling, until the whole of the inner came out. I laughed so much that I was unable to tell him what to do!

Chris

Not seen one of those. I do remember starter buttons and stater pedals though.

Tim

my A35 had a pull starter knob. probably early moggy minors too.

My Parents' Ford Consol had one of those. And a column gear change. And an umbrella handbrake. And a front bench seat.

I never managed to get the valve radio working though.

Gareth.

Starter handles?

critcher said.......... see, I can't stop.

Touch wood, fingers crossed, a replacement crankshaft sensor seems to have cured the problem - albeit the original fault was somewhat intermittent. I have started the engine at least 100 times at all temperatures and after a couple of 30 minute runs. It now always starts on the first turn of the key without a failure.

I have to thank the Ford designers for making the job extremely fiddly by placing the mounting bolt in the most inaccessible position they could think of. I had to use a 1/4 inch drive socket with an allen key in the drive end and then just undo the bolt a quarter turn before repositioning. Just rotating the sensor by 180 degrees would have made it a 1 minute job. The old sensor shows around 400 Ohms both cold and hot (as does the new sensor) so its not open circuit. It wasn't tested dynamically as at the time as I didn't have a helper to crank the engine whilst laying under the car.

As the sensor is magnetic I wonder if the thin film of contaminants on the old sensor contained metallic dust from 100,000 miles of engine wear?

I am pleased it is fixed. As to the contaminants I had a Focus (30k miles) come in with a cam sensor fault showing, I cleaned the sensor and the fault has not recurred in several years, so you may be right about metal particles.

I currently have the exact fault alan describe in the original post, i put my car in for a diagnostic check which was inconclusive, my garage suspects a fault with the ECU which they informed me would have to be sent for chec ks leaving me without a car for an estimated 5 days which would cause me mu ch inconvenience. I asked them to replace the Camshaft sensor without doing anything else and sadly have to report that this has not cleared the fault , had to sit for 10 minutes after i stopped on the way home to wait fot the car the car to cool down before it would restart and the Engine systems fa ult message/light were both displayed. I drove the car home the last mile w ith no effects of a system fault or lack of performance. Not sure what to d o next a i totally rely on my car and to lose it for a week will be a right pain. Glad i tried Alan's suggestion as it hasn't cost too much to replace the sensor but in case anyone else has this problem maybe i have helped th em save their money.

crank (not cam sensor) sensor is usually the hot cut out/won't start till its cool) fault.

Far more likely for a position sensor to be effected by heat than the ECU, IMHO, especially if it's a hall effect type.

But the ECU costs more so must be faulty.