On to the second CX issue: The driver's electric window won't close properly - it gets almost home, and then shifts forward, leaving a gap between the vertical rear edge and the door channel it's supposed to slide in. Any pointers on what might be loose/broken?
I have a great wariness of messing with door windows - there seems to be too much possibility of it slipping down while you're working on it and amputating a finger or two, so words of wisdom on safe practices would be appreciated!
The regulator / runnery type thing is broken. Not clued up on leccy Windows to be honest. FWIW, I'd give it to someone who's used to dealing with them. It's not worth dropping the pane down the door and having it break into 7 gazillion bits, never to be right again.
Amen to that. I'll have the interior door panel off at the weekend to satisfy my curiosity, but I'll probably hand it over to the mechanics in town at some point.
Sounds like something's loose. I'd take the inside of the door to bits and remove it, paying close attention to where everything goes, then have a look at how the window mechanism works, they're generally quite simple really.
I don't have any experience of CXs but the bottom of the window glass often sits in a sort of metal rail/clamp. The glass can become dislodged, perhaps due to it not sliding smoothly. I'd lubrificate the vertical channel with some silicone lubricant, have a root around inside the door to see if there's anything obvious amiss then stick it all back together and see what happens.
There are some Citroenophiles about in this newsgroup. Try also alt.autos.citroen (not carried by all news providers) if you fancy.
Don't get electrocuted. Window motors draw quite high currents. The inside of car doors are sharp and pointy, you'll probably get cuts. I've never experienced the guillotine effect from a window and the glass usually breaks into several million blunt pieces if you make a big mistake so really it's quite safe (c:
Except for some very specific bits of the ignition system or some very modern cars, you're dealing with 12V. High current, low current doesn't matter. You won't electrocute yourself.
Generally speaking, the threshold at which most people can detect a voltage is around 50v. Obviously there is variation between individuals, and of circumstance. However, as a retired electrical tech I have to say I've never heard of anyone feeling a shock at 12v.
By vertical channel, do you mean just the bit inside the door, or the bit in the windowframe with the furry seal in it? (Just before I get goo all over the exterior...)
Having survived mains jolts, a bit o' 12v should be ok. However I can see having to get a new window will be annoying.
I didn't believe the engineer in college who said she did, but she won some pints off me by very easily being able to tell when the wires she was holding where live or not.
I'm not an electrical tech by any stretch of the imagination but here's a little story:
Back in the old days when I was at high school a young chap called Alan and I were messing about with 12v solenoid valves and pneumatics in our Technological Studies class.
The bench had a compressed air feed and various DC voltage feeds built in. I couldn't be arsed wiring up some plugs just to test the circuit so I made young Alan simply hold the bare wires into the 12v holes. I only managed to make the pneumatic gubbins operate once by pressing the switch before the bench beeped a warning, he let go of the wires, refused to hold them any longer and insisted that I hold onto them instead. In my naivety, I did, and he operated the circuit as many times as he could in quick succession before I realised what was happening and let go.
We fitted plugs to the bare wires forthwith.
It wasn't a big shock, it didn't burn but it wasn't very nice. It also wasn't the last time the bench had it's own back.
I would lubricate the furry channel bit you can see with the door intact and the window down. Dunno what it looks like inside the door, that might be worth having a go at too.
Goo? Don't use silicone sealant, that's not good for lubricating in the medium to long term. Silicone lubricant is thin, runny and slippy and not like silicone sealant at all. It often comes in little non-aerosol spray containers and is also good for gas struts and stuff like that.
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