95 Lebaron Convertible moulding prob

wondering if anyone has found a solution to making it so the car doesn't leak. it leaks mainly between the driver's window and the back quarter window (there is a black molding attached to the quarter window). Short of replacing the window, I don't know how to fix it.

I thought of buying some rubber tape or whatever and putting it under the molding in other places to have it stick out a little more so that the window matches up better, but not sure if anyone else has any ideas.

thanks!

Ben

Reply to
Ben Loveridge
Loading thread data ...

You can sometimes get some closed cell foam stick on weatherstrip and 'reinforce' the old weatherstrip. The quarter window's weatherstrip can be ordered and replaced without replacing the glass.

My LeBaron has never leaked. I keep the selas and weatherstrip soaked in Armor All quite frequently.

Good Luck! Bill

88 Lancer Shelby 91 LeBaron Convertible 01 Chevy Impala LS
Reply to
Billccm

Armor All, or any other alcohol based protectant, is the WORST thing you can use!

After time, the alcohol evaporates, and takes moisture with it!

Reply to
SMoo

"Ben Loveridge" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@comcast.com:

If the quarter windows' seals aren't touching the door glass, they need adjusted. Unfortunately getting at the adjustment bolts is a pain in the butt. You have to remove the back seat and side panels. The nastiest part of removing the rear seat is the bottom cushion. It's held by two plastic sockets that snap into the floor then the metal loops on the seat snap through them in a rather permanent way. I tried various selections from my screwdriver and prybar collection and finally just stuck a large flatblade between the seat and floor then yanked until the plastic beasties let go. Then I bought new plastic clips. (I bet there's a secret special tool that slips in and spreads the heavy plastic tabs apart to release the seat.)

The backrest has two bolts at the bottom, there's a vertical screw into the floor through each side panel, another screw at each side at the top of the door jamb that holds the end of the chrome trim and another screw each side you have to slide the hard boot latches to get out. Take out the rearmost two or three screws on each sill cover so the front end of the side panels can come out.

Unsnap the liner behind the seat then pull it forward over the seats to remove the bolts along the seat top and nuts along the side panel tops. Those nuts also hold the chrome trim.

Now with the top lowered, you and a helper can lift the side panels and backrest out as a unit, or if you have small hands and a 10mm flex head Gear Wrench you can unbolt the backrest from the side panels with them in the car, four bolts per side with the bottom two needing the Gear Wrench. (I love my SAE and Metric Gear Wrench sets! Bought my first one to avoid pulling the V6 in my 1986 Cimarron to replace the flexplate.)

Once the seat and sides are out there are two vertical bolts that hold the tops of the window mechanisims. With a "wobble" extention and socket, loosen them just enough to move the window. Get it so that the front seal is against the door glass and the back edge is seated in the channel on the top. Tighten the bolts then run the window down and up to verify it's not trying to rip the rubber out of the rear channel.

Do the door windows fit properly to the seals on the windshield posts and to the top? If not, the guides need adjusted. It's easier to adjust the door windows since on these cars the door interior panels come off much easier than on most cars. There are three screws in the carpeted area along the bottom. The door light pries out from its top egde to get at a screw up inside. There's one screw down in the door handle "pocket" and another behind the speaker grille, which pops off easily with a stiff putty knife or wide, flatblade screwdriver. Remove the grille and speaker and the door light first to get those screws. The only plastic press pin is near the top rear. Once all the screws are out and the window is down, some careful tugging will either pop it off the panel or out of its plastic socket in the door. If it pops off the panel, be careful pulling it out of its socket. It looks like one piece but it's not. (I found that out after breaking the socket and having to get a replacement.) I haven't explored adjusting the door windows except for the two fuzz covered rubber slides at the top. The driver's door and fender were damaged on my 1990 LeBaron when I got it and that's all I had to adjust on the window on the replacement door.

That's the "fun" of buying a fixer-upper used car. You get to learn all kinds of things about it through fixing it. (It also helps to have grown up working on cars with a father who also grew up working on cars.)

Reply to
GAlan

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.