It's not heavy duty, I'm bringing an old sawbench back into service and want to see if I can make a spring loaded emergency brake for it if a guard is opened
Bicycle? I gather they're not particularly well reviewed compared to the hydraulic kind, but they do work when adjusted properly, and could be a cheap option.
I don't know about other mower designs, but my ride on tractor mower uses a small wire operated disc brake on the rear axle and a brake similar to a bicycle wheel rim brake block on the cutting deck. The latter v shaped rubber, is similar to a bike wheel rim rubber brake block, which acts on the same V pulley as the V belt. As the belt is drive is released, the brake block is released to stop the rotation.
The PTO for the cutting deck, uses a metal on metal clamp disk clutch system on the end of the crank, rather than the more usual system of simply using the V belt tensioning as the clutch. V belt remains under tension, clutch engages, disengages the drive.
Plenty BL cars from the 80s and 90s. Before a drum handbrake inside the disc became the norm. Rover 800 series would be the obvious one - plenty bits for that on Ebay. Or the Ford Sierra performance versions. Scorpio too.
Not 100% sure. The callipers I used for the rear disc brake conversion on my SD1 where Sierra Cosworth/Scorpio. But that may have been to allow for vented discs.
Rear disc of most Nissan's have cable handbrakes. 200SX S14, Almera, Primera etc. When I got my 200SX S13 with disc and drum hub rear brakes (like 300ZX, Porsche) guy at motor factors told me I'd never have any problems but the cable handbrake on caliper type were close to being annual MOT replacements.
Better buy new sliding part with piston and mech bit. The fixed frame that the pads go in is OK 2nd hand.
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Simple rule of thumb, if the caliper requires a piston wind back tool to replace the pads then it has a cable handbrake.
Mazda 323F. Think it's same as Fords.
They all use sliding claw type calipers that eventually seize on the sliding pins. Going to be a right load of agro if you show it the least bit of mud or grass sap. I know that farmers strip and grease everything every time they use it, if they don't they have to free it up before using it next year.
I suggest fixed hydraulic caliper with opposed pistons
Citroen BX had nice little alloy jobs, bolt on to a simple flat plate with 2 tapped holes. (cable handbrake on front caliper, vented disc contracted releasing brake, BXs had a habit of rolling away!)
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and a hydraulic handbrake lever.
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You really wouldn't want one. Notorious for failing. Swing arm pivot seized up.
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CB125T had same POS.
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Hydraulic versions with the piston and fixed pad holder that bolted each side of a alloy swing arm were used in various sizes on CB250G5/CJ250T and up to CB750 four. Pivots seized on them as well.
Ah yes. Think that was an early Girling swing calliper design as also used on the P6 Rover. It would be more difficult to mount for a one off use than a conventional calliper.
My first thought is calipers are relatively cheap new so not much reason to grovel around at a breakers.
Peter from your post am I right in thinking that cable operated ones must always be the single piston claw type, otherwise the cable would simply depress the opposing piston?
If so a double piston one does seem more sensible even given it needs its own master cylinder and lever.
In modern times yes, but around 60 years ago Girling produced cable operated handbrakes integrated into the main caliper with separate pads for the handbrake.
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