I need an impact driver for removing seats in trucks (some have slightly rusted bolts). Has anyone used the Ridgid right angle impact driver? If so, I would like your opinion as to whether it could be a replacement for an air ratchet wrench? Is it the only right angle impact driver on the market?
Thanks in advance for any information you might have
Nowhere near enough torque, it's for undoing screws not bolts, ie.e M5,M6 size Might be handy for Nylocs.
MAC tools do a right angle air impact ratchet. I have not used one.
mrcheerful
Gas welding bottles and a cutting torch. Just burn them off from the underside.
Most, if not all, trucks have the seats mounted using captive bolts, burning them off would leave a hole in the cab floor.
Why are you taking the seats out? It would be easier to leave the subframe in place, if that would still achieve what you are needing to do.
Otherwise, plenty of plusgas from underneath, and use an air ratchet. Even if you could get an impact wrench in there, it would probably just snap the bolts.
We have some electronics behind the seats that we have to get access to. An air powered unit is a problem since we will often be away from air sources. We thought of carrying our own compresser, but a reliable power source and the potential of an extension cord giving large voltage drops is a real concern.
The Ridgid right angle impact driver has 700 in-lbs of torque or about
60 ft-lbs. That seems pretty high (not an impact hammer, of course).
So can you get to these while still leaving the subframe in place?
It will be far easier to remove the seat from the subframe, than to remove the complete seat from the cab floor, as the bolts through the cab floor are usually right above the front wheel, and are constantly soaked through with spray from the wheel, and hence very rusty
If you are working on a truck, you have an air source on the vehicle you are working on!
Going back to the original question, I don't think you would have much chance of shifting rusty bolts with that impact wrench, it is designed to take screwdriver bits to drive small screws.
It depends on what you mean by rusty bolts. That'll spin a clean bolt but not a crudded one.
Oh dear. Are you sure you're qualified to work on the electronics coming out with a daft statement like the above about the extension cord?
Judging by his comments on extension cords, I don;t think I'd want him anywhere near vehicle electrics.
Compressors don't like long extension cords. It even says so in the instructions that come with them.
Applying a bit of common sense would show how wrong that statement is. How does a compressor know whether it is plugged into an extension cable or a ring mains?
Compressors don't like typical household expetension chords which are quite a thin core cable hence made for low currents. As such, they get hot easily and their internal resistance increases thus lowering the voltage.
Get a decent thick cored cable extension that can handle the current, instead of using the cheap s**te they sell at most DIY stores, and they have no issue.
If it's got hot enough to have any effect on the resistance then the fuse will blow
It knows because any length has a resistance, even 2.5mm2 cable which is too big to comfortably fit in a 13A plug is only half the resistance of Standard 13A cable.
The message from Duncanwood contains these words:
Adding resistance in the form of a long extension lead to the circuit will reduce the current, thus reducing the chance of blowing a fuse. You'll also notice the compressor running slower.
This isn't true of some AC motors - they can actually get hotter as the voltage decreases for really complex reasons I don't fully understand.
Apart from voltage drop when running, problem with compressors is start up current, compressor trying to start with any air in its tank needs quite a lot of current to start the motor. Have seen unloading valves fitted to compressors mounted at distance from main supply, empties the tank before attempting to start motor.
Adam
The main effects the fan coolings proportional to speed squared, the heating effects proportional to torque.
: In article , : says... : > We thought of carrying our own compresser, but a reliable : > power source and the potential of an extension cord giving large : > voltage drops is a real concern. : > : Oh dear. Are you sure you're qualified to work on the electronics : coming out with a daft statement like the above about the extension : cord?
What shall we consider? 13A going through a 100m long extension of
2.5mm^2 cross section?Resistivity of copper is (FX: flick, flick) 16.8 nohm m, so the resistance is (16.8 x 10^-9) x 100 / (2.5 x 10^-6) which is 0.67 ohm. Per conductor, of course, so that's a voltage drop in each of 13A x
0.67 ohm = 8.73V. Feed it with 240V and the compressor will see 240 - (2 x 8.73) = 222.5V. Since power is proportional to square of voltage, that's a drop of 14% at the compressor.Ian
That's once it's running, the starting surge is nearer 40A. & if the volt drops the starting surge lasts longer.
: On Mon, 12 Dec 2005 18:45:57 -0000, Ian Johnston : wrote: : : > What shall we consider? 13A going through a 100m long extension of : > 2.5mm^2 cross section? : >
: > Resistivity of copper is (FX: flick, flick) 16.8 nohm m, so the : > resistance is (16.8 x 10^-9) x 100 / (2.5 x 10^-6) which is 0.67 ohm. : > Per conductor, of course, so that's a voltage drop in each of 13A x : > 0.67 ohm = 8.73V. Feed it with 240V and the compressor will see 240 - : > (2 x 8.73) = 222.5V. Since power is proportional to square of voltage, : > that's a drop of 14% at the compressor. : >
: > Ian : : That's once it's running, the starting surge is nearer 40A. & if the volt : drops the starting surge lasts longer.
Absolutely.
Ian
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