VW AQY Compression

Definitely a Molotov cocktail.

The thing is, if you pull the thing apart and renew everything that needs renewing, how much longer is your daughter going to keep hold of the car? What year was the car made in, and how many miles does it have? Perhaps it would be more economical to just sell it as is to someone who might want a challenge, or if you have the time / space, break it for parts? (I'd be tempted to break it)

David Paste wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@9g2000vbq.googlegroups.com:

Hah, you must be privy to our conversation.

Rust free and straight Y2k Beetle, 120k miles, solid motor, everything good apart from this problem and broken springs. Have to say she's not as fond of it as she once was but I'm reluctant to give it away.

I hear what you're saying and if she doesn't show any enthusiasm I'll cut my losses and dump it. Trouble is that would cost me well over a grand, and I'd have to stump up for a replacement.

While I don't think it worth the hassle of repairing, unless I could get away with new rings, I could pick up a s/h lump for less than £400 and save me a fair few quid.

Sounds good in theory but we all know about those best made plans :)

Yeah, I was going to suggest a different engine - but perhaps not the AQY - perhaps a 1.8? Apparently they are not-bad engines. I have no idea what would need swapping with the engine though. This, I expect, would be the tedious bit. The CCM and the ignition module for sure.

The last time I had serious problems with a car, it was miraculously written off for me by a bad driver. I don't think I'm ever going to get one of those cosmic favours again!

Try the gauge on another car, it may be an underreading gauge. If you put too much oil in the cylinder you will get an increase in the readings simply by reducing the above piston volume. I assume the car smokes? is the smoke blue? or black? blue is burning oil indicating engine problems, black is fuel problems.

David Paste wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@12g2000vba.googlegroups.com:

I'll ask around regards compatible engines, boy runs a 1.8 in his golf no probs - now there's a thought..

This 2.0 drinks fuel, according to her ! and most everyone puts as much oil in, so would like to steer clear if I can.

If it was insured it would be gone by now, she has a knack of writing off cars :)

Cheers,

"Mrcheerful" wrote in news:REgbr.29167$ snipped-for-privacy@fx09.am:

Thanks, on my to do list before going any further

If you

Not a lot, a few squirts, but will be doing it again in the near future so will bear that in mind..

I assume the car

If I rev it's nuts off I think it's more a cloud of blue/grey, on idle just a hint of black, same colour as my spotty drive :) I'll take more notice of this next time.

The plugs don't appear wet but sooted ?

I feel I need to check the readings are correct before diving in..

Cheers,

oil burning on the plugs leaves lumps of ash. the maf sensors on vws are almost a service item and could make it run very rich, as could several other things.

"Mrcheerful" wrote in news:c1mbr.21394$ snipped-for-privacy@fx18.am:

Thanks, I'll check the plugs for ash. My boy has a 1.8 vw so might be able to do some swapping.

Would a hot engine make a massive difference to the readings ? Been doing it cold, hands are scored enough without getting them burnt :)

Cold will be lower if anything, but still 120psi is LOW.

Presuming you have a good cranking speed, and the throttle is wide open (if motorised, jam it open, remove multiplug, re-adapt, clear fault codes after.)

Tim.

Are you trying to use a push in the hole compression tester? If so it is extremely difficult to get a good seal on the average modern engine. Get a proper screw in one that holds the maximum reading. The engine should be hot for a meaningful reading.

No, I'm using a screw fix type but did have to buy a long reach adapter.

But you could be on the right track, I've tried the test on another two car and get 50 psi so removed the non-return valve and what do you know, peaks at over 100 psi. I guess the gauge should be calibrated with the valve cause the long reach also has one and when used reads low.

So thanks very much folks I think we're getting somewhere, hopefully just need to frig a way of getting a reading and start all over again..

Cheers,