98TJ 4.0L with no compression in cylinder 3 - long

This morning on the way to work I lost power while doing about 30mph up a slight hill. Turned into a parking lot to diagnose the problem. Sounded like I lost a cylinder. No abnormal sounds like clanking, banging, or clinking. Just a very rough idle and an offending gas smell coming out the exhaust. Drove to the nearest dealership which happens to be the nearest shop anyway. They did a compression test and number three was at zero. All others were in the 150's. I let them take the valve cover off and they inspected and said everything looked fine (didn't see it myself). Ran a boroscope through the spark plug hole and said piston looked fine. Oil had no gas in it. Couldn't see the valves well enough. Did the wet oil test and said the rings were fine. They suggested next taking the cylinder head off. That was when I said no. I didn't think it was quite time for that yet. Stopped at an independent shop ran by an old fellow and he suggested miracle oil. I'll try anything if it saves me $800. No improvement. Spoke with some gearheads at work and they suggested more miracles with the primary idea being either: a) carbon deposit has caused a stuck valve b) valve lifter is stuck due to sludge or mechanical damage c) broken valve In any case no one thought additional damage was likely. So tonight I tried all the miracle fixes to no avail. Started with draining 1 qt of oil out and removing the filter. Installed new cheapo filter. Added oil flush and SeaFoam and ran for five minutes with the spark plug out. While it was running I sprayed Techron and carb cleaner into the spark plug hole and down the throttle body. Some black deposits were left on my garage floor beneath the exhaust pipe. After five minutes I drained the oil pan and the filter. Installed new filter, 5 qts of new oil with 1 qt of ATF. Checked the spark plug for spark and re-installed. Drove 15 miles with no obvious improvement.

Removing the head is beyond my skill range so I'll take it to the independent shop tomorrow. At this point I'm thinking I've burned or broken a valve or have a bad lifter. I would like to hear any other ideas.

The curious part is that I have nearly always ran Mobil1 in this engine since I purchased the vehicle new in 98. I typically change the oil twice a year which works out to 5-6k miles each change. Three or 4 times a year I use a fuel cleaner additive. I also alternate grades of gas occasionally to get additional cleaning. I have a K&N air filter and always use a high end oil filter (Fram DG/TG or K&N). I have done this with the TJ and our Grand Caravan with a 3.3LV6 (except no K&N air filter). The TJ has 85k miles and the GC has 108k. The GC has fouled two plugs in it's life which I think is odd. Now with the TJ issue I'm thinking that I've been a little too lax with the oil change interval. But nearly everyone these days says that a

3000 mile oil change is unnecessary. Opinions?

I'll see what the results are later this week but I'm a bit baffled. Unfortunately my wallet is going to be suffering from a significant vaccuum as a result.

Mike Cagle

98 TJ 5sp with no other problems
Reply to
Mike Cagle
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No expert here, but with the gas smell coming out of the exhaust and no gas in the oil, it you might also look into the possibility of an ignition problem as opposed to a valve problem.

Reply to
Matt Macchiarolo

Not very likely as he pointed out:

Ignition won't mean diddly if there ain't no compression. The gas smell was likely unburnt fuel because of the cylinder not firing (because of no compression)

How could this be true? Doesn't checking rings require compression of some sort?

Sounds like valve issues to me. Sometimes hardware dies regardless of how well you maintain it. Especially since you've lost only one cylinder, it sounds like some particular part of it's actuation has crapped out.

Eh, oil's cheaper than new parts (and the hassles). I stick with a 3-5k range. If you're doing nothing more than daily driving (not off-road or towing a trailer) and we're not talking searing summertime heat then it's reasonable to stretch it a bit. But as engines age they do wear and the oil will get fouled faster. So on older engines it's a good idea to keep an eye on the oil changes.

-Bill Kearney

Reply to
wkearney99

I'm no expert either, burt how would that explain the zero compression in cyl #3?

I'm thinking the exhause valve is stuck open or not fully seating closed. All the mixture going into that cylinder is being blown out before it gets a spark.

Here's what I would do: Drain the oil again. Pull the plugs and the valve cover Have an assistant turn the engine over and watch the valves. (With no oil it will save from being messy) Compare the valves in cyl 3 to another good cylinder. Pay special attention to #3's exhaust.

-Fred W

Reply to
Fred W.

You make two statements that are contradictory here. First, #3 had zero compression. Next, they said the wet test was fine. Something doesn't compute - either just adding oil to the cylinder miraculously restored the compression or there was still no compression which means that they couldn't tell squat about the rings anyway. Makes me wonder about what they were looking at.

Last time I saw this kind of thing I had a stuck valve. Time before that, a lifter had failed. With the valve cover off, you should see both rockers for #3 moving (good lifter). Put your finger on the valve side of the rocker and press down hard while it's turning over - a stuck valve will not push back up near as hard. Since you seem to be pumping gas thru the tailpipe, I'd be looking at a stuck/burned exhaust valve. A stuck/burned intake would be sending pressure back thru the intake and you would feel (and hear) that at the throttle body.

With zero compressi> This morning on the way to work I lost power while doing about 30mph

Reply to
Will Honea

Reply to
L.W.(ßill) Hughes III

I also think it's a valve problem. I would put some Marvel in the cylinder and put the plug back in and let it run and see what happens. I don't think a valve can instantly burn, it could brake off and the boroscope should have seen that. So that leaves carbon holding it open or a sticky valve. Also I agree With Bill on the K&N filters. During Mt St Helens years ago only those with k&n filters didn't have filter clogging problems. Why do you think that is? I'll tell you what I think, the dirt just went on into the engines.

JoBo

Reply to
Jo Bo

It doesn't. But a bad diagnostic might. Has any other shop checked the compression on Cylinder 3?

Reply to
Matt Macchiarolo

Thanks for all the comments.

I took the Jeep to a local shop ran by an old fellow and his two sons. They were baffled by the diagnostics too but seemed more competent than the mechanic at the 5-Star dealer. Upon removing the valve cover they found that the valve spring on the exhaust valve was broken. They confirmed that the valve cover had indeed been removed by the dealer so the 5-Star mechanic simply missed it. They recommended replacing all the springs since it appeared to be a fatigue failure. With that they also replaced all the spark plugs since they had 85k on the factory originals anyway. My total bill from the local shop came in at just over $400. A far cry from the total of removing/replacing the cylinder head.

I called the GM of the dealership and explained the situation. Curiously he asked if the shop that did the work could confirm that the valve cover had been off. Sounds like he questioned the integrity of his own service people. He's refunding the bill for the work they did and throwing some extras in to convince me to give them another shot the next time either of my vehicles needs work. Not sure how effective that will be.

I'm aware of the downsides of running with a K&N air filter. I drove this Jeep for 70k miles in Arizona before moving to Minnesota in 2002. The amount of damage done by all the suspended particles in the air while off-roading in AZ will likely dwarf anything I could ever do here... unless I hydrolock it while bogging and then the air filter won't matter anyway.

Thanks again. Hope everyone has a good Jeep'n weekend.

mc

Reply to
Mike Cagle

Wow.....

That really has to make you wonder eh? Once they started tearing down the head I wonder if they would have been honest enough to stop when they spotted the broken spring or if they just would have taken you like they 'sure' seemed intent on doing. LOL! Missed a busted valve spring on the dead cylinder in question while 'looking' for a broken spring.... Ya Right....

There is 'no' other reason to open the cover except to inspect the valve mechanics in question.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Mike Cagle wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

Mike,

Glad to hear you found the problem and got it fixed so inexpensively. It's also gratifying that the symproms you described did in fact add up to a stuck open exhaust valve. ...and it's a *really*& good thing you didn't listen to the RC (resident curmudgeon) and have a total rebuild done!!

Agreed. I'd say the "old fellow and his sons" have done a bunch more to earn your future business than the stealer and his inept gang of thieves.

Keep the rubber side down...

-Fred W

Reply to
Fred W.

Reply to
L.W.(ßill) Hughes III

Agreed, I was voicing the possibility the test may have been bad.

Reply to
Matt Macchiarolo

I had the wife pick up six quarts of Mobil1 tonight and a new oil filter while she was out. Drained the cheapo oil with the ATF I added to it. Replaced the filter and put the six new quarts in. Good as new. The old fellow said it was really clean inside when they took the cover off. No sludge at all. With all the stuff I put in it to fix a non-existent carbon problem it better be. Tks again.

mc

98 TJ Sport 85k miles, all new valve springs and plugs
Reply to
Mike Cagle

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