Oh bugger. my 190E has issues.

Last few days my 190E has taken to drinking a lot of water, enough to put the "fill radiator" light on within 10 miles of filling and properly bleeding it.

The water pump is pretty knackered on it, so I'm hoping and praying that it's just the relief valve in the pump doing it's job.

The temp gauge has /never/ risen above 90 degrees, and the engine has never appeared to overheat in any way.

There is no smoke or water from from the exhaust, and it passed the MOT emissions with flying colours less than a month ago.

There's no signs of water in the oil, and the water that is still in the system when it has put the light on is clean. Just water and antifreeze.

There are no external signs of coolant loss, and when the car is topped up with water and the system bled there are no signs of airlocks, the heater works as it should, warms up quickly and is as hot as you like. The heater has always stayed hot even when the water level has dropped significantly. It takes a couple of kettles full of water to top the system up each time.

The radiator is also pretty tired, but seems to get to a uniform temperature when the engine is hot. The pipes to and from the radiator don't seem to be pressurised significantly - not enough to indicate head gasket failure or a dodgy thermostat.

Tonight I was leaving a friends house and the Merc was pretty difficult to start, as if it was partially seized, two or three turns on the starter and it fired up as it should with no signs of stress - as if the battery was dying.. or there's something like water, bugger, stopping the engine from turning freely.

So, it looks like head gasket, cracked block or cracked head, but there's no external indication, although the water must be going somewhere.

Two questions,

A) WTF is going on? B) Will the 230E engine go in, and is it a direct swap?

Reply to
Pete M
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"Pete M" wrote in message news:el4n5m$9u4$ snipped-for-privacy@registered.motzarella.org...

depends on what you want to spend, for a rebuild engine try

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they have a factory in UK the rebuilds are done to manufacturers spec and guaranteed

Reply to
Alan

In news:qHldh.85$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe7-gui.ntli.net, Alan wittered on forthwith;

I don't want to spend much, to be honest.

I don't mind doing the head gasket, radiator and water pump, or throwing a donor 2.3 in out of a cheap W124 (if it'll just plug and play), but what's really confusing me is where is the water going?

It's like a reverse oasis.

Reply to
Pete M

Buy a SSanggg YYYYYYoooooonnnngggggggg and transplant the engine from that.

That'll teach you to bang on about the "last of the solid old German engineering"

Reply to
Steve Firth

Steve Firth (%steve%@malloc.co.uk) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying :

A PPing-Ppong?

While Chrysler still sell old SLKs and E-classes...?

Will the old ML become the next Cherokee?

Reply to
Adrian

The sad thing is the 300C misses the mark by such a wide margin. An old E-class with a 5.7 Hemi could be a magnificent motor, the 300C isn't it.

Reply to
Steve Firth

I know, I know.

Bastard things, cars.

I should have just bought a Mondeo.

Reply to
Pete M

My guess would be a blown head gasket or cracked head, with the gasket being the odds on favorite. You can detect either by opening the radiator when the engine is running and looking to see if there are air bubbles rising in it. Be very careful to remove the radiator cap very slowly or it will flash water to steam with a violent (hot) geyser. You should also cover your hands, arms and eyes if you attempt this. Another (potentially safer) way to check is with a compression check. My E320 blew the head gasket after about 50,000 miles for no apparent reason.

With a blown gasket or cracked head, water can be sucked into the cylinder(s) on the intake stroke. It then goes out with the exhaust and you cannot see it. This is usually the cause for high water use without any noticeable leaks.

HTH, EJ in NJ

Reply to
Ernie Willson

No real amount of pressure in the cooling system. Ok, it de-pressurises on the first click, not violently, just the typical hiss. This is what's confusing me. Admittedly the cooling system still has pressure in if the car hasn't been run for hours, if I were to go outside now and open the radiator cap it'd depressurise even though the engine hasn't run for around 4 hours.

Indeed. Annoying isn't it?

Reply to
Pete M

If the problem is a cracked head or gasket, it can be cracked in such a way that there is no direct path to the atmosphere. In this case the system will hold pressure and not leak until the engine begins to run and the downward stroke of the piston sucks the water out of the water jacket. The water is then exhausted with the burned gases. This may be your situation.

HTH, EJ in NJ

Reply to
Ernie Willson

"Pete M" wrote in message news:el4n5m$9u4$ snipped-for-privacy@registered.motzarella.org...

TO check for water (and or vapour) in cylinders- pull the plugs out and check them and the piston crowns. Any that are splotlessly shiney clean, and you have water getting in the cylinder.

Tim..

Reply to
Tim..

The Ssang Yongg comment was semi-serious. AFAIK, the 2.3 from the petrol version is a drop-in replacement. You can up completely shagged Mussos and Korandos for less than the cost of a refurbed engine and the reason for these korean 4x4s going t*ts up is usually the shitty bodywork, the engines being clones of Merc units built under licence work about as well as the Merc/Merc South Africa lumps.

Reply to
Steve Firth

"Pete M" wrote in message news:el4n5m$9u4$ snipped-for-privacy@registered.motzarella.org...

Dunno but I do know someone with a 230E doing nowt. Probably too far away though.

Reply to
Doki

You could confirm that and find which cylinder(s) is/are affected by removing 'plugs.

Reply to
Albert T Cone

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