|| 1.) I will try to be succinct. The car I just bought has a dead || turbo. There has been a lot of under the hood hanky panky in this || car. (I wanted to learn something about diesel..well I hit a GOLD || mine here.. )
Got the tee shirt................. snip.
|| 2.) Should you be able to turn the compressor wheel with your || fingers or a small piece of wood? (item number #2 in the manuals) || Mine is stuck solid
It should turn freely!! If it doesn't turn(siezed!!) thats your problem, It should spin freely when touched.
|| 3.) And finally where do you start on a dead turbo? The advice in || the Haynes manual is.."Due to the special techniques required any || checking or diagnosis of suspect problems should be left to your || dealer." That's all it took for me to try to tackle this myself ( || well sort of with a lot of help from some of you kind people out || there) !
I have played with turbos and even built one good from 2 bad! lasted 5K miles in the hands of a 20yr old!! would have probably lasted longer in normal hands.....
The problem is that it spins at 15,000+ revs so if the bearing, turbine blades balance and oil/supply are not perfect the turbo self destructs... This is why an exchange unit (with warranty) is the best way to go.
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|| M-B even included an overload protection switch (on the intake || manifold) to avoid the engine running away if the wastegate were || ever to stick shut, That tells me, anyway, that the ALDA will react || to as much boost as is delivered to it and the M-B engineers wanted || a way to cut off the boost being delivered to it!
These are to stop the turbo pushing more air and then more air etc etc untill the engine self destructs, so there has to be a limit to the ammount of boost!
One problem I have seen with turbos, is the bearing seals, go this pumps oil into the inlet manifold which then fuels the car and you can guess what the final oucome of that is!. The mess of the engine can be quite a sight.
Des