Have had tie rods and idler checked, will have a look at the ball
joints, but this one only has 45K on it. Will check for play in the
wheels. Should that be checked with the wheels hanging free or
supported under the spring pan?
Richard Sexton wrote:
Either way. Easiest it to, with the car in park, have somebody push it
hard from the front. If you see any back and forward movement in the wheel
it's rebuild time. If you're unsure after this lie down on the ground next
to the wheel and have somebody, witht he car in gear, release and apply
the brake a few times. You'll be able to see the wheel go back and forth
whe it shouldnt.
A new part is $450, but there's a $100 rebuilt kit to replace just the
worn part if this is indeed the problem. Replace the track rod mounts
while it's apart, too.
Need Mercedes parts? http://parts.mbz.org
Richard Sexton | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org
I am betting upper ball joint. Grab the ball joint by the rubber sleeve...
and push car up and down. Do you feel the play?
If not this then I believe it is the track rod bushing... it is the diagonal
bar that goes from lower control arm to your frame... that bushing at the
frame is bad. You can test this by using a long rod and manipulate the rod
up and down and you should hear or feel the clunk. Change both side because
the other one will fail.
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