I having real trouble trying to remove the above, to change the wheel
bearings. I own a 1977 MGB with Rostyle wheels. As far as I'm aware,
all the necessary nuts have been removed, I've purchases a 'puller' &
have tightened the puller so much, I've accidently damaged the swivel
axle. Is there anything obvious I'm doing wrong or can anybody offer
Remove the single nut at the end of the stub axle, and the washer
Remove the brake caliper.
If the hub rotates but will not come off then the inner cone of the outer
bearing is siezed on the stub axle.
Try heating the end of the stub axle, you are pretty well limited to heating
to a point where the grease melts and runs out or starts to burn, over
heating will change the properties of the steel of the stub axle and weaken
it. Try to pull the hub when it is hot. Wnen the puller is tightend up give
the nut end of the puller bolt a few wacks with a hammer, the shock
sometimes helps loosen things. Retighten the puller after each couple of
If this fails try heating and cooling in cycles.
If all fails, remove swivel axle assembly from suspension and take to a
workshop that has a hydraulic press.
You will need a workshop manual for reassembly, as shimming is required and
the instructions for this are in Haynes and Gregorys.
I take it that the damage so far is limited to the thread on the end of the
stub axle caused by the puller, the threads should clean up with a thread
file. When carrying out this sort of operation it is sometimes useful to
leave the nut part way screwed on as it will then hold the bolt on the end
of the puller in place.
I've given up with trying to remove the hub, it just won't come off.
Next move, to remove the stub axle, which was going OK until I got to
the last bolt to be removed, the lower truncion pin, securing the
lower stub axle to the wishbones. That pin/bolt refuses to come out !
Plan C - remove the nuts securing the wishbone pivot & the nuts
securing the wishbones to the coil pan. All OK, until the last bolt
securing a wishbone to the coil pan refused to budge.
End result, still can't remove the suspension assembly.
If anyone has any ideas, please let me know.
I have packed up my manuals as I am moving house, and my car is not here
either, but as far as I can recollect :
Jack up the front of the car and place supports under front cross member.
Remove road wheels.
Loosen nut on tie rod ball joint.
Hold a heavy hammer against one site of steering arm eye.
Hit other side of steering arm eye with a hammer as hard as you can
consistent with making sure that you hit the side of the eye and nothing
else. Repeat if necessary.
Remove tie rod joint.
Remove brake hose.
Remove cotter pin from large nut at top of king pin above the top wishbone.
Loosen big nut.
Have someone heavy stand on front bumper.
Place jack under outer edge of spring pan and raise suspension enough so
that upper suspension arm is free of bump stop. A floor jack is best for
Remove big nut at top.
Raise upper arm untill knuckle at top comes free of king pin.
Swing king pin outwards and lift swivel assembly off king pin. (note that
there are shims and a bronze thrust washer between the underside of the
knuckle and the top of the swivel assembly, keep in same order ).
Lower jack carefully until load on spring is released.
Remove heavy person from front bumper.
It is essential that the lower trunnion bearing is in good condition. The
seals are fairly rudimentary, and water and crap find it a breeze to get in.
The best prevention is frequent application of a grease gun to the grease
nipples. (not so much to get the grease in, but more importantly - to force
the water and crap out)
If the bush and sleeve are corroded it is probable that the bolt is rotating
relative to the wishbone, this is not a good thing and will result in the
eventual separation of the joint with more or less serious results depending
on how fast you are going and how close you are to the edge of a cliff.
With the load off the suspension, you should be able to remove the four
bolts that hold the 'dog bone' to the cross member and be able to attack the
reluctant bolts on the spring pan and lower trunnion on a work bench.
You may have to sacrifice any bolts that won't come undone to the grinder or
a nut splitter
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