Re: Rear hub removal

No, I didn't explain clearly. The bearing comes already pressed into its housing, which attaches with 4 bolts. But to get at this bolted on bearing housing I first have to remove what I referred to as the hub. I'm sure this is the wrong name. I mean what you see after removing the wheel. It is a steel drum, about 6 inches diameter, attached to the disk rotor. I guess the wheel mounting bolts go through holes in this.

I now think that what I referred to as the drum is actually integral with the disk. I guess it should just pull off the wheel studs, but it seems to be very tight. I'm reluctant to tap it with a hammer in case I break it.

== I've got rear drum brakes so not certain how applicable this is to your setup, but with mine, the brake drum was rusted to the axle hub. There are two threaded holes where one inserts bolts to press off the drum. I could see the face flexing before it finally popped loose. Sounds like you're describing the drum for the parking brake on a rear disk setup. May be similar. See:

Daniel,

Thanks for the useful info about the threaded holes, and thanks especially for the site with the manuals. I'm looking at the manual for year 90 (also good for 91), page 40. Section 4 shows how to remove the rotor. Surprisingly, the first two steps are: (a) Remove the axle carrier mounting bolt and nut of upper side. (b) Remove the torque plate. Then it just says remove the disc, install the new one, then install the torque plate. I have no idea what this torque plate is, and why it needs to be removed. Any suggestions?

Thanks again. Gib

This is not a repair that should be carried out without the correct tooling and trade training.

Dave Strachan AIAME,Toyota master tech Australia.

I do have some qualms, particularly over the removal and installing of the axle, which involves using a puller and a press. The mechanics want a surprising amount of money to do this, hard for me to justify on a car of this age. I'm not quite as ignorant of automotive mechanics as I might sound, but I am aware of my limitations.

I'd be grateful if you could explain in a sentence what the torque plate is and why it needs to be removed.

Gib

Torque plate is the assembly that the brake pads get installed on. Until you remove the torque plate, the disc wont slide out. Also you might have to retract the brake liners for the parking brake assembly by using the star wheel adjuster. If the disc is rusted to the hub do what Daniel said (use the two threaded holes on the disc face to push it against the hub. On my 2001 Cmary I used a 10 mm bolt which was used to attach the horn to the body under the hood. Hope this helps.

I wasnt having a go at your ability at all Gib, But I am saying that this type of repair can turn to tragedy pretty quick if things are not carried out in the correct sequence and inspection of the components is not carried out by a trained eye,ANY type of brake repair (in my humble opinion)should only be carried out by a quallified tradesman.I have also seen rear axles seperating from housings,due to bearings not being correctly pressed.The repair as you say is expensive in a workshop,but it is for a reason,to do the job you need time tools and knowledge none of which come cheap.(and of course there is the risk of damaging the new bearing and from memory they are not cheap). If you are going to attempt the repair yourself ,get back if you like ,and Ill try and walk you through it as best I can. stay safe, dave

That's a very generous offer, Dave. If I do decide to have a crack myself, may I communicate with you directly ( snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com) or would you prefer to keep the exchange here?

Thanks Gib

sure bob em me direct if u like

Excellent. I'll try not to bother you.

Gib