3.0L V6 O2 sensor: 4-wire/2-wire dichotomy

1990 3.0L V6 in a Mighty Max pickup 4WD most likely needs a new O2 sensor. Two major supply houses want ~$150-US for the item- ouch. Two other chain stores offer Beck/Arnley replacement units for ~$35-US, so I grabbed one of these. These cheaper ones require the re-use of the plug and wire stubs, but this is no big deal. When the order arrived it was a 2-wire sensor and there was no poop-sheet in the box, again no big deal. But checking my factory manual the V6 has a 4-wire sensor (with heater) so I am entering new territory here as I have only replaced GM/Ford 2-wire (one-wire) types before.

Thinking between the lines about this leads me to deduce that the

2-wire O2 sensor they supplied will indeed fit and work for this application. For the considerable cost savings the downside might be that, without the heater, the engine might not quite fully comply with the original emissions testing scheme. But it just might work 'like new' for all means and purposes in the real world as we know it. Especially in a 13 year old vehicle that otherwise would continue to be driven with a bad O2 sensor and thus be way off scale for clean operation. Yet, without the heater the vehicle would technically not be in stock OEM form, thus the lack of poop-sheet in the box and any other discussion about this whole topic. Search of Google yielded me nothing on this but I did not exhaust all possibilities.

Anyone been here before, or remember discussion about this? TIA, sp

Reply to
sweepea
Loading thread data ...

According to Pico (A manufacturer of automotive test gear), the O2 heater is only used (needed) during the initial warm-up of the engine, after the exhaust manifold has reached operating temperature, the O2 sensor functions normally, with or with the heater. You should be OK, after the initial warm-up.

Ray

Reply to
Nirodac

Thanx.

I guess with a heated O2 sensor the ECU can kick in that much quicker, removing the system from the open-loop preset operation. I was thinking the heater might be *really* needed during cold weather, esp going down mountains. But all you need to maintain is something on the order of 600 degrees F for the zirconium to function properly.

Also, apparently, a 'zirconium sensor is a zirconium sensor' for your typical street machine with EFI, so if it fits in the exhaust tube boss you are good to go, heater or no heater. Only special application sensors that can operate at high speed and which cost mucho bucks would be the exception here, but these are rare.

Guess that removes the mystery of OEM O2 sensor replacement, and will enable cost savings and possibly some extra convenience as well. Further comments pro or con will be appreciated, of course.

Reply to
sweepea

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.