Mitsubishi Colt problems

While I can't speak of this vehicle specifically, I know that cars of this vintage all have idle management systems, usually controlled by the ECU. The idle speed can be adjusted, there is a number of ways that it can be done, depends on the engine and the manufacturer. It also sounds like the load sensing / idle speed circuit is not working. Question 1. when you start the car from a cold start, does it rev high for a few minutes as the engine warms up? I would bet the problem is around the throttle body area. Check here specifically for disconnected connectors. Try reseating the various connectors.

There is usually a motor or solenoid valve of some kind that controls the throttle vane. Make sure it is working. With respect to question 1, does the idle change when you unplug the connector that powers the idle control motor (if it changes, then the motor/solenoid is working).

Manuals can be had from e-bay. Some dealers will order a manual from the manufacturer, and there are web sites that sell manuals (although right now I can't think of a Mitsu vendor). By far the best manual is the manufacturers manual. I've seen cloned soft copies of the Eclipse manual and even an Acura REST, floating around the internet for free. You might even be able to find one for the colt.

Good luck

Nirodac

Sorry if this has been asked before (I looked but couldn't find anything really relevant), but my mum is having a problem with the car she bought about 7 months ago. It's a 1993 Mitsubishi Colt 1.6 GLXi.

The problem started when the head gasket blew (the radiator had been in poor shape when we bought it, but wasn't fixed due to the expense, and subsequently blew when my mum was driving down the motorway, causing it to overheat). It was towed back here and fixed by a local garage, but subsequently developed this problem we're now seeing.

The problem is that the car seems to have difficulty starting. When you turn the key, you often need to tap the accelerator slightly to get it to start (sometimes it'll nearly start, then not, and repeat that until you tap the accelerator in rhythm with it). If the engine is warm, it generally seems to start alright. My mum says she can't trust it anymore since she's afraid that it won't start when she's driven somewhere. The engine also seems to be idling slightly slower than it used to, and once (last night) it seemed to start to stall when I was sitting at some lights. Using the electric windows simultaniously seems to take it to the brink of stalling too, although I can't help but let go of the controls at that point since I don't want it to actually stall (using both windows always reduced the RPMs to almost-stalling levels before, but it normally revved itself up to compensate quickly. I hope this vague description gets what I mean across!).

The engine hasn't done 500 miles since it was repaired yet, so it's not had the head re-tightened or the oil changed, so perhaps they could affect it (I don't know all that much about the specifics of engines so can't tell if that's relevant). My dad seems to think it might be the electronic choke, but if that's done entirely by the engine management then I don't see how the gasket blowing could change it. He's also checked things like air intakes, spark plugs and so on. Thanks in advance for any help.

In an entirely unrelated issue, is there any sort of manual (or website) regarding the car as a whole? We have a manual but it only covers the engine, and the driver's side door switch doesn't work so the courtesy light doesn't come on when you open it, which is very annoying :)

Thanks,

the key, you often need to tap the accelerator slightly to get it to start (sometimes it'll nearly start, then not, and repeat that until you tap the accelerator in rhythm with it). If the engine is warm, it generally seems to start alright.

1. Check that the tappets are not tight: common problem on these engines. This can happen after a head job, and will cause hard start and run until warm.
2. Check the air idle mixture screw on the throttle body. May be under a black plastic button. Don't confuse the AIM screw with the screw that sets the throttle closed position. So , torque the head bolts again, and reset the tappet clearance.
3. Check the electrical connections on the air cleaner (this is the Mass Air Sensor). If the MAS is not passing correct values to the ECU, you get rough running.
4. Check that the connections to the coolant temp sender (near the themostat housing) is undamaged and making proper contact. This sends a voltage to the ECU, and if it's open circuit, the engine will be REALLY hard to start cold.

Stewart DIBBS