Hot Air Blower Onto Carb::

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I wouldn't try to heat the air, but try to gently warm the carb body. The body will retain some of the heat, the air will be replaced befoe it gets warmed up.

You could always try running copper (i think its copper) wire round the carb and running a current through it. Its a trick i've heard of being used before on the rallying scene and definately works for iced up carbs.

Hello Carl.

21 Dec 03 17:32, you wrote to snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.co.uk:

CG> You could always try running copper (i think its copper) wire

Nichrome maybe? Copper has too low electrical resistance.

Sergey

... It's been a business doing pleasure with you...

Can't you just splice some hose into the cooling system, and wrap it round the carb ?

But when the car is cold, the water going round those pipes is cold! So if you wanted it to work before you even started the car - that wouldnt work

Oh yeah. Knew there was something about copper that was good, quite the opposite of what is wanted though :)

All bolted up ..... switch on dash ... turn on, 5 mins of hot air really bakes the small carb up. Start up .... perfect running. By the time i have gone a mile the carb temperature is falling, but then the engine temperature is rising and this may overcome my usual carb ice up which starts after 2 miles. Just got to watch the battery loading now!!! The onboard temperature thing which i rigged up awhile ago is now reading from the opposite side of the carb (out of the way of the hot air flow).

5 mins of baking took the carb body from 8 degrees to 56 degrees.

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Regards..... Steve.

In article , snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.co.uk spouted forth into uk.rec.cars.modifications...

A lot of cars use a coolant system based carb/manifold heater though to avoid ice. The Skoda 136 Rapid and the Favorit/Felicia did anyway.

As long as it is pre thermostat it warms up very quickly, and carb or throttle body icing is normally caused by cold air being sucked in and mixing with the vaporised fuel isn't it? So only happens when you drive, rather than when you are running. So a water heated manifold/carb/TB should be effective.

Skoda actually fitted the water channel/jacket to the 136 engine to combat carb icing, as it was even prone to happen on the rear engine models where the engine isn't even getting massive cold air rammed in from a front facing induction kit.

But not for long.

Does carb-icing affect things that much ?

But cold water is warmer than ice, and would keep things warmer than freezing, just because it is moving.

I know it can, learnt it in GCSE Geography i did. I remember watching a vid about somehwre very cold (-20 or something like that) and a truck driver was underneath with a flaming torch trying to melt the fuel in the fuel lines which had turned to ice.

Indeed, but running a length of wire round the carb would be easier and probably more efficient than running a length of pipe and then connecting it up to the appropriate part of the cooling system

That's for a completely different reason, though.

Mainly because older derv formulations would become 'waxy' at very low temperatures. Not frozen as such.

Of course, petrol needs _much_ lower temperatures to freeze - and carb isicng is caused by moisture in the air freezing.

I know, but i thought it was a funny story anyway, and was all related.

Fairy snuff

When you are late for work it does. The cure on my ax is to use more than 3/4 throttle, thus invoking a fuel dump into the cylinders. (Or in other words, the second flapper opens). This is nasty ... you go from a hesitating , coughing , wheezing, weak mixture running engine to full bang for your bucks literally over

1 mm of throttle movement. Serious .... 1mm, >just< enough to start to open the second choke and *bang* you are on your way. Accelerating though, so its .......... on/off/on/off/on all the way to work!!! (E.G: The only time you don't accelerate when the second choke opens is when you are going up a 1 in 10 hill in 5th gear).

Anyway ... merry christmas.

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Regards..... Steve.