Me and my SD1

I've been thinking long and hard about the SD1 over the last few weeks - I'm definitely keeping it but I'm trying to decide what to do with it.

I'm gradually getting all the little jobs done on it, but the major work that needed doing is out of the way for now. So what should the next big project be? So far my list is as follows:

  1. Respray - there's a few little rust scabs over the body and it would be nice to get them all sorted. I guess this would ultimately involve some sort of respray. I need to investigate this more, but it would probably involve spending a bit more than I wanted to. Any ideas of cost? I wouldn't normally care about such asthetic issues but next August I want to use the car as my wedding car, so it'd be great if I can get it looking tip top.
  2. Gearbox - the current manual box (LT77) is a bit whiney. This is my first experience of this box, so I'm not sure whether I should be considering a replacement or whether it'll be fine if I just leave it. Anyone with any knowledge of this box? PeteM?
  3. Exhaust manifolds - the exhaust is stainless from the downpipes back, but I've been thinking about going stainless with the whole lot, but not sure whether it'd be worth it. Again, opinions?
  4. 4 barrel conversion - I definitely want to do this at some point. Maybe this should come after 3 though? or perhaps I should wait a bit longer and do a proper conversion with a 3.9 lump (or bigger?).
  5. Front dampers - currently the car is running on lowered springs (-40mm over standard SE spec I think), with Spax adjustable dampers at the rear, standard jobbies at the front (the Spax adjustables on there broke) and a few polybushes thrown in for good measure. Currently the rear dampers are turned right down to a low setting to match the fronts, but I'd like to get some adjustables back on the front so I can firm up the ride all round to make the handling a bit more purposeful.

Anything else I should consider? I dont want EFi, so dont bother suggesting that, but all other sensible options will be noted.

Please feel free to discuss, take the piss, randomly swear at me etc etc

Reply to
Carl Gibbs
Loading thread data ...

Couple of grand. Maybe more. I used a guy on Retro Rides to do the 75 and he did a good, if not perfect job. Mind you, it all depends on how much rot you find under the paint when you strip it back. Bear in mind I didn't have any rear arches when I sent the 75 away, which bumped the price a bit.

Not of that box, but when my 75's box did that, I had it rebuilt for about £450 - worth every penny. Even the syncro works on 2nd gear now.

No idea, but shiny manifolds would look awesome, at a guess.

Pass. I hate carbs.

Get a matched set of adjustables for the front.

The 75 was a bit odd when I had decent shocks on the rear and OEM on the front.

Hmmm, I was going to suggest trying to source a twin-plenum EFI setup. But I won't bother.

The problem with no. 1 is that all the trim will look shabby as hell, so you'll end up spending a fortune having that spruced up or be looking for tidy replacements.

One thing that added to the cost of the 75 was having all the grey plastic bits taken off and painted, even then I couldn't get an exact colour match for them.

Reply to
SteveH

Well, no point in saying, put a V8 in it is there? Do things that make it faster, and get the suspension all matched up hehe! Coilovers available for them? Mind you they won't be cheap. Re: the rust, a full respray, that's a good job, will not be cheap, north of a grand for a proper job. But if you're having it done in the same colour it's much easier cos you don't

*have* to go into the door shuts/under the bonnet etc. Also, if you prepped, or near prepped it yourself it'd be cheaper. Of course, you know that the only way to really get rid of rust, and make it stay gone is to replace bad metal with good metal. So, unless you feel confident doing that, with thr cutting/welding and stuff, and making it all smooth and stuff, I'd be paying a pro to sort it - but again, that adds cash again.

Perhaps take it round a few places, and see how much a full 'blow over' would be - in theory when you got it back it would be as shiny as new - then I could teach you how to wash it without re-swirling the paint :)

Reply to
DanB

He's right. Especially with massive, chrome topped K&Ns on the carbs too :-p It'd be a bitch getting out there with the chrome polish every Sunday mind...

Reply to
DanB

Not overly fussed about coilovers TBH - it's never gonna be a full on track machine. The suspension is perfectly matched at the mo, as the rear dampers range from no damping to bastard-hard. At the moment they're 13 clicks up from the bottom, and that seems to suit the front dampers pretty well. But some on-car adjustables for the front would be very nice, so I could tailor the suspension depending on what I was using the car for :)

Re: the rust, a full respray, that's a

Blow over - thats the words I was looking for!! Nat's dad is a bit of an expert when it comes to bodywork, so I'm sure he'd help me prep it so it just had to go in for the paint. I keep meaning to drop in at the unit next to my Dad's as they apparently do fantastic paint jobs. But if it'll cost over a grand then it'll definitely have to wait.

Reply to
Carl Gibbs

Arches seem solid, but are showing signs of going. But a couple of grand is way over budget. As I said in the reply to Dan, I know some people that might be able to help so getting it cheaper should be possible.

I'll bear that in mind. Where did you take yours? The synchro on 4th is a bit dodgy when changing quickly so would be nice to have that sorted too.

Indeedily :)

The Spax at the rear have a full range of adjustment, so they're matched fine to the OEM fronts. The car sits justs right, but it's just a bit too soft for a spirited A/B road bash.

Eeeek, that'd be big bucks!! They go for crazy money, and they're not that much of an improvement of the SP.

Luckily the trim on the car is mostly all chrome, so should all just polish up nicely. And both bumpers (grey plastic) come up well when washed, so I think I'd be ok from that respect.

Reply to
Carl Gibbs

That'll help, but for a quality job you'll still be looking at over a grand. Having said that, my paint is probably better than new now.

Took mine to a specialist in Talbot Green, near Pontypridd.

Spares are hard to find, so I chucked 2 used boxes at them, too and they built one decent one from the bits.

You obviously need to uprate the front to match the rear, using Spax adjustables....

You think that now, but won't when you attach them to freshly painted bodywork.

Reply to
SteveH

Cool. The boxes come up on the Bay regularly anyway, so I'm always keeping my eye open for one.

No way will I use Spax again. It had Spax adjustables on the front when I got it - they were about 3years/10k miles old and there was about 5mm play in the shaft on both sides. Not impressed at all. I believe Gaz and Koni both do the dampers, so I'd go for one of them.

Hmmmm, maybe. But I'm not one for the bodywork being absolutely perfect. With a fresh paint job I reckon I'd be more than happy. Oh, and maybe getting a Vitesse rear spoiler bolted on at the same time ;)

Reply to
Carl Gibbs

Yea I'm not really a fan of coils if I'm honest, but I'm sure yours would feel better if you had the same suspension on front and back hehe. And as you say, you'd also have the advantage of been able to set it up.

Well the expensive bit, is the prep-work, so if you an the inlaws can sort that out properly so that'd take loads off. If it's just a flat colour the paint will cost way less than £100, so then it'd just be however much they charge for spraying. Bear in mind, if they're a proper place they'll have to keep it in their spray booth over night at least to dry as well, and all in with the few coats etc it'll take up their space for a couple of days possibly.

Reply to
DanB

The Vee had Koni shocks matched to Eibach springs as standard. It rode well :-)

Reply to
DanB

Proper one this time? :-)

Reply to
Clive George

I had mine done about 3 years ago. Mainly because the original paint (black) had died and wouldn't polish up.

Had one door and door skins replaced - the door because of rust from a poor repair and the other two because of ripples from a poor repair before I got the car. I supplied the bits. Also had a new windscreen fitted because the old one leaked.

Supplied the car near completely stripped out and it was a cash job done 'when they had the time'. Water based black paint. Took them 6 weeks. Cost

2200 including the screen. Not a bad job but not perfect. But it seems to be lasting pretty well. Only real problem are a couple of rust bubbles on the sunroof. Lost a new one on Ebay which went for a small fortune...
Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

'Twas my understanding you can use the bits from much later Range Rover boxes?

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Can I ask why? A complete conversion kit costs pennies these days and works better than carbs. It's a simple system and easy to fault find.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Twin turbo

Reply to
Abo

i'll add supercharger to that then :)

Reply to
Vamp

Why not go for the full house and put Nitrous on it as well... calling Burgerman!

If the 3.5 can be bored out to a 4.9 then I'm sure it has enough strength for a +150bhp shot...

Reply to
PCPaul

I'd love a supercharger TBH, but that's a bit out of budget at the moment.

If I keep my promise to myself and keep it long term - a Supercharger or Janspeed turbos will happen at some point ;)

Reply to
Carl Gibbs

I just prefer the idea of a big 4 barrel carb. I might go to EFi eventually, but I need to satisfy my carb curiosity first!!

Reply to
Carl Gibbs

I think SteveH is talking Alfa 75 boxes...

Reply to
Doki

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.