Alternator, comfirmation of diagnosis.

Ok, go out to start the '97 mustang GT after work today seems normal starter begins to crank then all stop. Still have dome light, radio, etc.... No lights on the dash for self test. I go into the lab, grab a multimeter.. check the battery, 12.75 volts... blah. Get a jump car seems happy, dash voltmeter ok, no lights on after self test, great. Let it idle a little pull off. try to accelerate, bad stutters, ABS light comes on, voltmeter needle bounces a bit, check engine and battery warning lights flicker back and forth. Turn around, get into the parking lot, shut it off, get a ride home.

Come back with tools, MAC engine analyzer, etc in the mav. Jump it to get it going again. It's giving a good 4 amps trickle charge to the battery, looks good, current from the alternator looks good. Do the alternator test, in the good range (barely), check with all accessories on it's drawing a good 50-60amps. Decide to try and drive the car, it's better but the same symptoms are there a little. Decide I might be able to get it home then ride the bicycle back to get the mav. Here a whine I haven't heard before. It gets louder as I accelerate. Then it suddenly changes pitch, dash lights flicker, I turn around immedately back into the parking lot. Turn off the car, not enough enough juice to power the window back up on ACC. (hooked up the jumper cables to do that) Disconnected the ground wire, locked up the car came home.

My diagnosis, despite the encouraging tests is an alternator that's just about dead given the symptoms. If it were the battery, I would guess that the car would keep going just fine once it was jumped and I would at least make it until I turned it off again.

I'll be shoping for an alternator, remove the one and have the parts place test it as well. But does it seem like I am on the right track here?

Reply to
Brent P
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Brent P opined in news:f9oRa.80230$Ph3.9321@sccrnsc04:

Ummm. yeah. Could be.

but only thing that COULD cause that in the ALternator is a diode breaking down and going to "short" mode.

If it hasnt progressed, it's going to test good... only happens under heat stress and the test in Autozone for instance only throw a load on for a few seconds.

Did you think to look at your dash voltmeter when the weird sound happened?

Reply to
Backyard Mechanic

It looked ok, at idle, but when the lights flicker when accelerating it dips.

Did another test this morning that points to the alternator, I jumped the car and let it idle. I connected the MAC in ammeter mode, trickle charge, good. voltages looked good. Started to load the system. headlights on, dash voltage meter dips and returns (not normal), turn on fan, dip and return on voltmeter, big dip (not normal), turn on rear window defroster. It's now drawing about 75amps. I want to get it to 80 something as per the book. I hit the drivers side power window, 78amps. Both drivers and passenger side. it gets to about 80amps just before it stalls. (battery has little charge so there is no place to draw except the alt)

So now I know I can stall it from electrical load alone. I just don't see how a bad battery can cause that to happen, not to mention making the car undrivable due to the bucking effect on acceleration. It acts like it's getting fuel starved and ignition starved at the same time. ABS computer loses power and restarts.

Reply to
Brent P

One of the first things I tested was the resistance of both battery cables. 0.1 ohms and 0.2 ohms.

Battery on the tester at the autoparts store came up bad cell. New one arrives friday. Got to love just-too-late inventory systems.

Reply to
Brent P

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