Bronze Distributor Gears revisted - Just for Winze

Below is the reason why the bronze distributor gears are used. This came directly from Summit's website. As I said before, Winze, it's cheaper to change a worn distributor gear, than changing out the camshaft.

Gary

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The right distributor gear for your roller cam application.

These bronze distributor gears from Mallory are compatible with any cam, and recommended for steel billet mechanical roller tappet cams and slot hard faced steel billet mechanical flat tappet cams. Bronze gears absorb the increased wear in special cams and magnetos, and are easily replaced before costly damage to the camshaft gear occurs. The gears are precision-machined from the highest quality aluminum silicon bronze alloy for maximum durability.

Reply to
GEB
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just curious, can you install a bronze gear on a stock distributor, or do you need an aftermarket like msd or accel? . tim

95 mustang gt 5spd
Reply to
Rosco1211

Yes. They have bronze gears for just about every distributor ever made. It's cheap insurance.

Reply to
GEB

GEB, I'll still use a steel gear with my steel roller cam just like ford did on every 5.0 mustang engine from 85-95.

Reply to
winze

Amen. I'll second that.

Don W

Reply to
Don Wallish

You too can do as you wish, but don't complain when you have to change the cam, because the gear on the cam either wears out or breaks. As I told Winze, it's "Cheap Insurance". I look at it this way, if Jeg's and summit say that, there has to be a reason, and from a racers standpoint, I can see why they recommend it. There's a lot of things Ford done, that isn't exactly the right way to do things. As was mentioned many times, the bean counters dictate how the cars are built, not the engineers.

Reply to
GEB

The first thing that's going to happen is the engine will stop running, second thing that's going to happen is I'm going to say "Damn" I should have used a steel distributor gear! If steel is good enough for Ford and 100,000 + miles without a problem, it's good enough for me also.

Reply to
winze

By your response, I'm assuming you've never seen a distributor freeze up, and the results of that. So answer this question, which would you sooner have break, should the distributor freeze up, the distributor gear, or the gear on the cam? Do you have any idea what the difference in price between a new cam or distributor gear, and the cost of replacing each? And in the event that one or the other does break, which do you want getting in your oil, and possibly through your motor, steel or bronze? Winze, you also need to understand Ford's thinking. If either one is going to break, THEY want the most expensive part to break, and the part that the average car owner won't want to try and replace themselves, which means more money for their service departments. As I told you to do the last time we had this debate, call any shop that builds high performance motors, and ask them what they recommend. I doubt you even done that. I guess the old saying you can't teach an old dog new tricks is true! At least you have proven it to me.

Reply to
GEB

I recommend a steel distributor with a steel roller cam and I don't think that Ford builds cars/engines to tear up just to keep it's service departments busy. FWIW old dogs can learn new tricks if they have a good teacher.

Reply to
winze

add "gear" to the last message.

Reply to
winze

"winze" wrote in a message:

Evidently, you have the wrong one. Why don't you go to the drag strip, and talk to racers and ask them, don't take my word for it. Ooooh, that's right, your a magazine racer! Evidently, you have a lot to learn about performance motors. I learned by doing, not reading. I've crewed for a modified stock car, and a couple drag cars over the years, and now in the process of building my own drag car. But then according to you, I don't know what I'm talking about, and you know everything! WRONG!!!! I guess Jeg's, Summit, and the many other performance parts suppliers are wrong as well? Winze, it's time to put the magazines down and get out there and learn by doing!!!

Reply to
GEB

Sounds like you should stop reading jeg's and summit catalogs.

Reply to
winze

Sounds like you're a rookie,and a bench racer.

Reply to
winze

which distributor gear are you using in your mustang? ever hear the rule "If it ain't broke don't fix it" ?

Reply to
winze

Sure I have, but it doesn't stop me from replacing older parts with fresh ones. I don't like "surprises" at the track especially during points events. I worked at an autoparts store for a few years so I get stock parts pretty cheap. I have replaced a lot of stuff on my car just to be safe. I still have all new premium quality rotors, pads, drums and shoes waiting to go in whenever I get time, plus I have a new custom steering rack, mass air conversion kit and a NOS system all sitting in my hallway waiting for my sponsor to install.

I don't intend to do anything to the current motor and since it is bone stock, the distributor gear is still stock but as I said before on a "cammed" or built-up engine I would use bronze since it is more durable. When I buy a race engine for my Mustang, I will make sure to go over all the various parts to make sure they can take the abuse I dish out at the track. You can bet I won't be demanding a steel d-gear :)

...whatever, it's no big deal

-- Buzz Haze-Ottawa ON

87 5.0 LX Coupe
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Reply to
Buzz Haze

Bronze gears are not more durable than steel, or cast iron gears, they are made to wear and be replaced. If a cam is billet steel it should have a steel distributor gear, some steel cams have a cast iron drive gear and require a cast iron distributor gear,a bronze gear will work with any cam if you want to constantly pull the distributor to check for wear, they are not made to last and shouldn't be used on a street driven vehicle or one that isn't inspected regularly.

Reply to
winze

Read this ,straight from Msd Tech forum.

msdtech2 Posted: Jun 30 2003, 01:22 PM

Advanced Member

Group: Members Posts: 216 Member No.: 19 Joined: 18-June 03

The bronze gear does have a shorter life than the regular steel or iron gear. The bronze gear is normally used for race applications and must be checked periodically due to the softer material. If the motor that you have is a 351 Windsor that is bored out, then we do offer the steel gear, which is recommended for the roller cam. It is a PN 85834 Steel Gear for/ .531 ID Shaft. When installing a new gear there are certain measurements that the gear must be placed at for proper gear mesh, the instructions will be included with the new gear on how to properly set gear height. The oiling is normally done by the standard "splash" method, although it is recommended to use the gear lube that is supplied with the new gear for proper break in of the gear. Thanks, msdtech2

Reply to
winze

"winze" wrote in a message:

If you are the expert, answer this question. How many drag race events have you attended or actually drag raced yourself? Secondly, I wasn't the one that said the bronze gear was more durable. What I said was it is "Cheap Insurance" in the event that the distributor bushings freeze up. I stated that if that happens, the gear will go, before the gear on the cam. Also, you stated that a bronze gear should only be used if you check the gear on a regular basis. Well, the distributor that is in my race car, was bought from a friend that used that distributor with a bronze gear on it from day one, and he had used that distributor for around 8 or 9 years, and now it is in mine for almost 2. The only time the bronze gear was checked was the day it came out of my friends motor and went in mine and it looked like it was brand new. I also said that it is cheaper to replace the distributor gear than the camshaft. You can try all you want to twist my words to suit your needs, but your the one that is proving you don't know what your talking about. Like I said, I crew on other race cars when I'm not racing my own, or shooting video for friends, and I've probably been doing it more years than you are old.

Reply to
GEB

"winze" wrote in a message:

I just love the way you attempt to make someone else look like they are wrong, by twisting their words, when your the one that doesn't know what your talking about. I'd be willing to bet, you don't even do the work on your own car. If there is someone everyone shouldn't listen to, it is YOU! I've been a certified mechanic, back when it was known as NAISE, back when I was in my mid to late 20's, which is giving away my age. I've helped build and crew on stock cars, and drag cars. And now I'm building my own drag car, and next year will be racing it every weekend. For your information, my race car is a 71 Ford Pinto with a bone stock 84 302, with worn out valve springs, that has run a 8.816 in the 1/8 mile, with the valves floating, at a Test & Tune session at the local drag strip. As soon as the new valve springs arrive and I get them replaced, it will run MUCH faster than that. The reason I ran it with the worn out valve springs, was to get a baseline for the car. That way I will know how each change will affect the car.

Now, let's hear your qualifications, and magazine reading and arm chair racing don't count! Have you ever drag raced your car, let alone build a high performance motor? Please! Post proof of your extensive knowledge in building performance motors! As the old saying goes, "Put Up or Shut Up!"

Reply to
GEB

LOL, keep talking! your ignorance is showing more & more.

Reply to
winze

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