Distributor Springs (for mech advance) needed

Any idea where I can get new springs for my 65 distributor? Checked a local source with no luck, and the catalogs I have from various Mustang part suppliers don't seem to have any.

After much tinkering and adjusting, the last thing that will hopefully eliminate the pinging I get on acceleration from a standstill is replace the springs with new ones or stronger ones, to reduce the mechanical advance a little. Seems the ones I have may be a little old and lost their spring....

Appreciate any source you can point me to.

Thanks in advance. (pun intended!)

Michel.

65 Convertible 289 4bbl
Reply to
MJT
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IIRC, Mr Gasket used to offer recurve kits for the old breaker point distributors. These included several springs and a couple of flyweights. While you're in there, check the existing flyweights and the pins for wear. Also, make sure the cam isn't siezed on the shaft..... under the rotor should be a wick... a drop or two of light oil at every tune up was the norm and the wick would allow this oil to leech down between the cam and the shaft.

Even if you are trying to keep the car a "numbers" car, you might consider an aftermarket distributor for streetability. Dropping to a colder plug may also help with the concern.

Reply to
Jim Warman

Bingo.

Mr. Gasket had exactly what I needed. Thanks Jim, for your advice. I ordered it today through a local distributor, PartSource. For the princely sum of $4.75 Canadian before taxes for a recurving kit with the flywights and several sets of springs.

By the way, for anyone who has been following my problem with pinging, I have definitely narrowed it down to the springs. I am told that the two springs should be the same, but in my distributor, they are different. Even worst, one is loose to start with, probably contributing to the problem. I look forward to getting some new springs from Mr. Gasket.

Michel.

Reply to
MJT

We often see two different springs installed in attempts to tailor the ignition curve. Often, one spring may "flop around" though that is a scenario I don't like. I wont even pretend to know how centrifugal force works but I did have access to a synchrograph for several years. It isn't necessary to run matched springs since we usually want advance to hit fairly hard at the beginning and taper towards the top end.

Hope the kit does the trick for you...

Reply to
Jim Warman

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