Compressor strength for supporting valves

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Thanks for the tips Steve.

A question about the rockers. Are you talking about the rocker arm which connects across between the valve and the other rod going down into the engine or is the rocker the rod going down into the head opposite the valve?

If you are talking about the rod opposite the valve which goes down into the head how do you remove this and why? Also, how do you replace it when done.

Thanks in advance,

Bill

Bill, He's talking about the rocker which converts the upward motion of the pushrod to the downward motion on the valve. Not sure about your engine but the rocker usually pivots on a cup and secured but a bolt or it's on a rod that spans the head and retains all the rockers. The pushrod can be removed when the rocker is out of the way simply by lifting it out of the hole. While its out, roll it across a flat surface to check for bends and make sure it's clean inside... when re-installing, make sure it's seated nicely in the lifter and at the rocker. Typical valvetrain assembly: Camshaft: elliptical lobes rotate converting rotary motion to reciprocating motion Lifter: rides on the lobe, lifts and lowers as the cam turns Pushrod: Bridges the gap between the lifter and the rocker Rocker Arm: Converts the upward motion of the pushrod to the downward motion on the valve Valve: I'm sure everyone has this figured out TIP: When dis-assembling valvetrain components, always keep them organized... #1 cyl (intake) with all its components...#1 cyl (exhaust) and all it's components etc. Valvetrain components have so many wear surfaces, if you mix up to components you're asking for trouble.

-Brian

: > > I see some advertised at 100 Max PSI. Is this enough? : > >

: > > Comments, suggestions are welcome. : > >

: > > Thanks, : > >

: > > Bill : > >

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The rocker arm is the component that pushes down on the valve. The rod going down the other side is the pushrod. It's not necessarry to remove the pushrod, although there is nothing to removing it, just lift it up. When you put it back you just have to make sure it's sitting in the little pocket in the lifter at the bottom.

Thanks Steve, Cherokee, and all for the great information and tips.

One curious question. You mentioned not mixing things up due to wear (I'm afraid I've taken off the stuff from one cylinder (rockers, rocker bridge) and have not noted which are which. Hopefully I'll be alright with this one. I'll pay attention with the rest).

So when you replace new parts you need to replace every component in the valve assembly? How does this work?

I have a couple of references:

This is from a 72 I6. I have an 83 I6 4.2 but I think it looks close.

There's some great animations at this site:

Thanks,

Bill

reciprocating

compressed,

*******Don't lose any sleep... chances are better than good that you will be fine provided that each component shows normal wear. Do a close inspection... if you see ANY cracking or dull surfaces, chances are the mated surface will show the same. Change these parts. Valvetrains are very forgiving due to hydraulic lifters but if you mix up the parts you're asking the metal to re-conform in a very short period of time.... that's when you will run into trouble (tick,tick,tick)

: So when you replace new parts you need to replace every component in the : valve assembly? How does this work?

********Not necessarily. When you replace a cam, always replace the lifters. When you do a valve job, replace the seals and springs. If you have to replace a rocker, replace the pushrod.

-Brian

: > : > > I see some advertised at 100 Max PSI. Is this enough? : > : > >

: > : > > Comments, suggestions are welcome. : > : > >

: > : > > Thanks, : > : > >

: > : > > Bill : > : > >

: > : > >

: > : >

: > : >

: > : : > : : >

: >

: :

I have heard of others filling the combustion area with some really flexible rope and carefully bringing the piston up to TDC or close to it so the rope pushes on the valve heads.

Just a suggestion, but make sure that the rope does not shed! later, dave