Hi Guys
How do I go about replacing the ignition lock cylinder on a 87 mustang? Yes, I have the key and I can get it into "Run"
What parts are needed and what needs to be done? Im picking up a new one after work today from Ford.
Thanks in Advance,
Danish
Take apart the plastic around the colunm. then insert the key turn to run NOT START. you will then look on the alum part for a small pin to push in right by the ignition. push this in and its done put new ignition in run and insert the same way . Hope this helps you.
Remove the clamshell cover on the column ( phillips screws). Once the key is in and in the run position push the small locking button near the back of the lock cylinder casting and it should just pull out. Replace with new lock cylinder. Done. StuK
Look for an "unoccupied" hole in the steering column garnish...... seen more on tilt wheels IIRC (don't see much else these last few years).... anyway, the unoccupied hole (if present) will line up with the release pin on the lock cylinder. Many older non-tilt wheels required steering wheel removal to access the lock pin but I don't think yours follows that rule (just said that for an FYI).
Don't get rammy... it's easy to break the key in sense contact.
Hey Guys, thanks! It was a piece of cake.......but it didn't solve my problem :(
My problem is that when I turn the car into the "run" position either a tap of the key or running over a bump will turn the car off away from the run position......I thought maybe it was the cylinder so i replaced that but i still have the problem! Please help, really need this fixed, its a hazard on the road cus it keeps shutting off. Again the ignition is being sensitive, a bump or the key turning to off less than even a milimeter will shut the car off! Any ideas?
Thanks!
The actual problem is the ignition itself, not the lock cylinder. I repaired the one in my '89 years ago so the memory is kind of foggy but... It's a rectangular metal box with a plastic top, the lock cylinder moves a rod which moves electrical contacts in the box. I don't remember if wires were plugged into one end or both. The plastic top is held on by metal tabs, which over time become loose and the electrical contacts also become loose inside. I removed the one in the '89, opened it up, rebuilt it, and reclosed it tight. You should only need to make sure the tabs are holding the cover tight for now, and then find a replacement. The replacement should be revised, as this was a recall and replace item back then.
MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.