I would appreciate everyone's advice on what to look for when buying a 65 or 66 fastback. I regret to say that I never had the opportunity to work with cars growing up. For that reason, I certainly need all the help I can get from all of you.
I am able to spend up to $10,000 for a '65 or '66. I know it isn't much money, but it is the best I could do right now. The car I am purchasing will be my daily driver, so it needs to be in good running condition. From what I've seen so far, I probably could get a descent "project" car. Needless to say, I don't want to end up with a money pit.
Can someone tell me what I could expect from fastbacks in various price ranges? Where are the best places to find my dream car? What buying tips should I keep in mind?
Start with Hemmings.com. autotrader.com, and Tom Schmidt's Mustang page.
I just bought a 66 FB for 12.5 (289 2v auto, 4 wheel non-power drums) with very little rust (still had the original glue for the original windows). BUT... all weatherstripping needs replacing, as well as all seals and gaskets, bumpers, etc. It's going to take around 10K more to put it right (total engine rebuild, rebuild front suspension, rebuild tranny, etc, plus paint). I'm changing out the interior because I don't like red inside, and the exterior gets changed because I don't like the cheap maco paint job. There are mods, like 3 point seatbelts, stereo w/cd. tilt steering wheel, front power disc brakes, dual exhaust, etc.
You bigggest worries have got to be RUST, and damage due to accidents. Check out Mustang Monthly magazine (on line too) for tips on what to look for for each year and model, and what kind of expense you are looking at. Example, the floor pan may be in need of replacement, but the cost isn't too bad. On the other hand, the cowl is a major expense. Nose to tail wiring harness is $650 if the main wires are shot. The list goes on.
Start with a solid body. Add sound mechanicals (drive traine, brakes, steering). Then worry about interior upholstery.
Start sending for catalogs NOW and look through them: Mustangs Plus, The Paddock, California Mustang, Laurel Mountain, etc (look through copies of Mustang Monthly). Order catalogs on line. Most are FREE.
I had an outstanding looking vehicle lned up in Las Vegas. The guy who picked it up for me checked it over and said that there were big areas where his magnet wouldn't hold at all. Don't let a fancy cover fool ya!
You get what you pay for. And it depends upon how much work you are willing to put into it. On the other hand, if you don't get in to big a rush, there are many bargains out there. One of the guys I know let a 65 FB go for $4500. His mother was the first owner. Low miles, no rust, etc. There's one just advertised here in town for 10.5 (if I had waited just 2 more weeks....)
I round my local Mustang Club, and C(lassic) A(merivcan) M(uscle) Club to be very helpful in going over the car.
Good Luck.
fastback. I regret to say that I never had the opportunity to work with cars growing up. For that reason, I certainly need all the help I can get from all of you.
but it is the best I could do right now. The car I am purchasing will be my daily driver, so it needs to be in good running condition. From what I've seen so far, I probably could get a descent "project" car. Needless to say, I don't want to end up with a money pit.
Where are the best places to find my dream car? What buying tips should I keep in mind?
NP GT.... I am just beginning the long process of restoring my 66.... it goes into the engine shop on 1 Dec and out by about 1 Jan...
POINT: When you are looking around... don't forget to add in what it will cost you to go get it, or to have it transported to you. Also don't forget that when you get there it might not be as good as you thought... a wasted trip and money for nothing. Same thing applies is you hire a company to locate and inspect (about $450 per car).
POINT: If the engine is original as mine is, it needs to be reworked for unleaded gas. R&R (remove and reinstal) runs me about $1000. Rebuilding runs about $1800. Mods (ie 4 v carb, balance etc) brings the total; to $3060. This does not include things like new water pump, alternator, starter, distributer, etc. Many shops will NOT tell you about the peripherals (like cooling syatem, etc). And they make their big money on machining. If you could find some friend who knows what he is doing and you work it yourself you'd save about 50% by buying a rebuild kit 'cause you are not paying for the labor. Same applies to other areas like suspension (which I am doing myself).
I'm leaving some things to the "experts".. and I am doing quite a bit myself (like the disc brake conversion amd all the interior). Partially because I am short on time, and part because I lack the skills for some things like body work and paint.
Check around for the best price on the work.
I ended up buying mine in Las Vegas... and then in the auto trader paper and in the Nickle (paper) I find several Mustangs, but only one FB right in my own backyard.
You can always put an ad in the paper but they will know you want it and expect the price to climb.
If anything else comes up you have a question on... I am NOT an expert, but I have several people who are and they have been very helpful... so email me snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (delete NOSPAM)
By the way, I got 9 catalogs of parts, all free, plus literature from various companies after I emailed them with questions, including technical drawings, and samples.
Don't know what you personal financial situation is, but Capital One Auto Loan was very reasonable. Minimum loan is $7500. I asked for 15K and got it. If I had not used it all, I would only have a loan for the amount used. No penalty for early payoff.
One more thing... DON'T BE IN A HURRY TO GET A POJECT DONE. Prioritize what NEEDS to be done. Mechanicals/safety first... looks and fancy stereo later. Then do a flow chart of when what will be done and by who, until you come full circle to end up with a completed project.
Ex: 1. purchase car/register/insure 2. determine needs drive train body glass interior 3. budget 4. determine what can be put off (ie new upholstery and carpets 5. what can be done while part of project is being done (I am redoing suspension and brake upgrade while engine is being done 6. etc 7, special needs (I am upgrading to 3 point seatbelts which requires the fabrication of hardpoints along the interior roofline. This must be done BEFORE paint and new headliner because welding will discolor paint and scortch headliner material)
Talk to engine rebulider, body and paint guy, etc. Find out what they will and what they won't do. My paint guy will let me strip the car and put it back together. My engine guy is bringing the car back to my home so I can work on it while he does the engine. That wy you are not sitting idle waiting for one part of the project to be done before you can get something else done.
Another thing. I am renting a uhaul and traveling a couple hundred miles to a Mustang parts place. It's cheaper for me to do that than to pay the shipping since I am ordering a lot of parts at one time. Also, as mentioned, there are kits for everything and often (BUT NOT ALWAYS) you save when you buy the kit.
Again, check your local Mustang Club for assistance. I just got offered a clone R version for $14,500 that is excellent. Not sure if it is sold yet.
Now... if you are not scared off yet... GO FOR IT!!!
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