Next Step - suspension. Input?

Have you called MM? They can guide you in picking a good damper/spring combo.

I have Bilstein/H&R(Sports/Front/Race/Rear) and MM was right on getting me this combo.

I wouldn't have thought of asking them, but that sounds great. I mentioned in another post that I don't want to sound like an ad - BUT MM has earned my complete trust with their engineering and tech knowledge. The only thing is that I sent an email to their tech department about my strut-tower brace, and still haven't gotten a reply. I respect them enough that I won't give up on them off of this one issue, but I was still disappointed.

Yeah, who knows what happened to your e-mail? I've had good experiences using the land-line with them.

I also lived nearby their shop and was using one of their dealers, The guy Chip Foose uses on his TV show when they fix up a Mustang.

Jim Custer wrote in news:1185809450.477282.277860 @b79g2000hse.googlegroups.com:

Just make sure those subframe connectors are _welded_ on with the car actually sitting on its wheels. With the combo as described above, you might be very pleasantly surprised at how well the thing will handle. Also, don't forget about the bushings and rear control arms.

Thanks for your thoughts. In the interest of fairness, I must report I got a response today to my earlier inquiry with MM. As expected, their input was useful and accurate. On the bushings and control arms, I had left them off on purpose. I have heard that at least with polyurethane bushings, you get squeaking and 'it'll knock the fillings out of your teeth', and control arms sounded too pricey / too extreme. Maybe I'll look again at that. What do the rear control arms get me? I'm going back to MM's site now to look into the rear control arms. Are the control arms one piece or separate upper and lower? If so, which do you replace? Both?

They won't squeak or knock your teeth out, but they might not do much for you if it's just a street driver. The subframes might flatten the roads enough for you.

Jim Custer wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@w3g2000hsg.googlegroups.com:

On a car that old I'd replace everything. Chances are real good that all the bushings are shot to hell anyway. You don't necessarily need polyurethane, but you should replace them with at least new OEM. The control arms have bushings in them, so you should at least put it up on a lift and see what you're dealing with.

I love MM parts, but for these I'd look at Steeda's chrome-moly pieces to help keep the weight down on your 'vert.

Ford has tapped Eibach to supply springs for some of their prototypes. Enough said?

Go with a progressive rate spring and no more than 1.5 inch drop.

I hear good things about Bilstein. But I love my Konis!

Personally, for a street car, I'd just keep the stock sway bars and put the money else where.

Eibach are very nice springs. Be sure to buy new spring isolators when you do the install.

That's correct about it never being an ultimate handler, but the improvement can be quite dramatic.

Patrick

I will attest to that.

I will also attest to pissing blood after I had the poly bushings installed, but you get used to it.

Whatever doesn't kill your bladder only makes it stronger.

dwight

You are traveling pretty much the same path I followed many years earlier. Just make sure you put the chassis mods ahead of the springs and shocks. I used the Global West subframe connectors along with upper and lower strut tower bracing and a rear shock brace in my 88 GT 'vert. These changes alone made a dramatic change in the car's handling, so much in fact I decided to leave the springs and sway bars as they were.