Platinum Plugs 66 Mustang

If they were the same cost I'd say what the hell, since they cost more... From my experience platinum plugs are highly over rated.

I run platinums in my '70 Cougar just because a plug swap on a Cleveland is so much trouble. I run normal plugs on my kids' '65.

I really like the MSD 8.5 mm wires, because of their big boots. They come in black or red, so go black if you want to avoid the bling look. If you're running a stock distributor, look out for the fact that hi-po aftermarket wires usually come with the spark plug style connectors at the distributor end. Make sure the wires you order go with your cap, or that you can change the cap to spark plug type connectors.

I have platinum plugs in my '65. It's basically the same setup as yours but with a Ford Motorsport electronic ignition. They've been in there for 5+ years (it's not a daily driver) and seem to be in fine shape. I don't think they work any better than regular plugs, I just thought they might be more suited for a low-use, long-term situation. At the time they might have been an extra $10 for 8 so I figure I've absorbed the higher cost.

I have plain jane 8mm suppression grey plug wires with 45 degree plug ends, and 90 degree cap ends. If I remember correctly, they are for an '86 5.0L * (that's what the engine is, sans EFI) They fit under the Monte Carlo bar, wrap around the front of the valve cover, and don't come too close to the headers.

• Those wires need a cap with spark plug type connectors, you would need a big cap kit like the following:
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DP Pics of the cars:

single platnum

hurc ast

Hey Dinsdale,

I'm working on putting a 1993 Mustang 5.0 in my 66 Mustang. Looks like you have a similiar set up. Would you answer a couple of questions for me? I'll wait to ask them till I hear back from you. Or, do you know of some specific websites that deal with this kind of swap?

Gary >

Let's see...the basics were:

-I had to get a 157 tooth flexplate with a 50oz imbalance to connect my old C-4 to the newer engine.

-Used a early style, single rear sump oil pan and pickup tube.

-I went with a Motorsports electronic ignition which included a distributor with a bronze gear (for the roller cam).

-I plugged the oil dipstick tube on the block and drilled a hole in the timing cover and used a re-pro chrome dipstick. I had to do some minor grinding on the back of the aluminum alternator/tensioner bracket to clear the tube.

-Went with an electric fuel pump. (I'm running a carb and no accommodation for a mechanical pump on the newer timing cover)

-It took a while to find the right serpention belt to fit...I don't have power steering or an air pump/idler.

- I had the lower radiator outlet moved to the driver's side. Again, a few test fits to find a molded lower radiator hose. I'm thinking of getting those stainless steel flex hoses.

-I also had the radiator guy angle the upper connection towards the passenger side just a little to give more clearance around the belt tensioner. It's a 65-66 style three-row radiator.

-Electric cooling fan.

Everything else bolted right in..motor mounts, headers (long-tube style), alternator.

There's many sites out there...and many more companies that have wiring looms, EFI fuel pump, etc.

One site I have seen that deals with most of this (especially the EFI aspect) is:

DP Pics of the cars:

Got that taken care of. The engine I'm using is 50 oz.

Got that. For some reason I thought the deep part of the pan went in front.

Yes, I've read about that. Was it pretty easy to figure out where to drill it? Did you think about using the old (65-66) timing chain cover, since the oil dipstick hole was already there? I have both so I could use either.

Did you use your old alternator, or go with a newer one? I'm using one from the 93 Mustang I'm getting.

What brand did you use, and cost? I'm going with carb also for the time being. What carb did you use? I'd like to use an original 4 barrel, I like the look of it look better.

Same here. All I've ever had on this car was the alternator.

I think I could go either way with this. I know I could either buy a radiator for this application, get the outlet moved, or buy a water pump with the outlet on the other side. There are many ways to go. Is your water pump reverse rotation? From the pic I see, it is. Is that an A/C compressor? Would it be too much to ask to see a picture of the other side of the engine so I can see your belt routing? Man, I'd really appreciate it.

That is the radiator I plan to use.

You used 66-up mounts? That is what I plan to use.

The sites you mentioned I've been to, I just wondered if you knew of any others. Thanks a lot for your reply

Funny. I've had this Mustang for about 7 years. A year ago I said to the wife, "Let's just get rid of everything Mustang that we have." She said nope, we left the church when we got married in that car." So I not only kept it, I spent $1000 the very next day on new suspension pieces. Yesterday I sat in the car for the first time in about 5 years (done various work on the car, suspension etc., but not sat in it for that long.) I didn't have the guts to say to her, "I'm sure glad you didn't tell me to sell the car."

Thanks again for your help.

Gary in NC

"gcroix" wrote

It does.

Would it work with the serpentine setup?

I'd stick with the new one. higher output and reliability along with internal regulation.

It does go in the front...I don't know what I was thinking of.

There's a flat spot/shoulder on the late model timing cover that worked perfectly for the dipstick.

I didn't have an old timing cover...but I really didn't consider it since I wanted the serpentine belt and wasn't sure if a late-model pump would work on an early model cover.

I used the old style just because it was new at the time I did the swap (back in '90), but have been considering a one-wire later style setup.

I have a Holley red pump - Around $75, but it's a little loud. (and probably more pump than I need) I may check out a Carter.

I went with an Edlebrock 600cfm carb, electric choke. ..#1406. I also got the step-up spring kit for a little tune-ability.

It's the reverse rotation water pump from the late model mustang. Here's a diagram of the belt routing with a 70.5" inch belt:

I used the '65 style. The '66 will still bolt up to the block. I think the two styles bolt up to the frame brackets differently.

Glad to help out. DP Pics of the cars:

I believe so, though I've heard the crank seal has some impact. I could use a newer timing chain cover, no big deal, I'm just thinking that drilling the hole for the dipstick would be harder than what it probably is. Does that make sense?

Yeah, that's what I thought myself.

:-)

Ha! Thanks. : )