1990 Nissan Sentra 1.6L 4speed - followup on stumble during acceleration

Feb 20, 2010 17 Replies

Had a problem with a stumble on acceleration, especially at WOT-



the car seemed like it was losing power, stumbling, low rpms, the car just seemed like it wasn't getting fuel.



THEN, if you let off and gently accelerate the power is back, everything is fine. This is repeatable ad infinitum and is less apparent (sometimes doesnt happen) when the engine is cold but always present at normal operating temps.



it has good fuel pressure, all 4 injectors work, the fuel pressure regulator works properly, the ECU shows 55 - no faults- same as it always does when i crawl under the dash and check for error codes!



it was recommended to check/replace the engine temp sensor and/or O2 sensor. For whatever reason, I want to blame the TPS so I tested it according to the Haynes manual- I followed the test procedure, and the manual claims it should read .5



-1volt at closed throttle, and 4-5volts at WOT- well according to my meter MY TPS reads the opposite- at the closed throttle it reads 4.3? volts and at WOT it reads 1.1 volts. Have I found the likely culprit? Does the Haynes manual have it wrong?



Thanks to all who take the time to read! robbie


The problem is clearly being caused by something that depends on engine vacuum. When vacuum is low, the problem appears and then disappears when vacuum is high. I'd check the EGR system. Too much EGR will lean out the mixture on acceleration and cause stumbling and hesitation. You can test this hypothesis by blocking the vacuum line to the EGR valve thus disabling the EGR system. If the problem disappears, you know it's the EGR system. Another characteristic of EGR system trouble, is that the stumbling/hesitation will not happen when the engine is cold and warming up but rather begins abruptly at a very specific coolant temperature during warmup. That occurs because the vacuum for the EGR system is supplied through a themostatically controlled vacuum switching valve which only opens above a specific coolant temperature. Good luck. Al

Thanks for the advice. I will test this out using your theory and plug the egr valve and giving it a test drive.

You are testing at wrong place. You are testing between feed voltage (constant 5V) and output. Test is between output and ground.

Sounds like a fuel starvation problem. Really needs a fuel pressure test under load. T a pressure gauge in after filter, on a long hose. Route the hose under back of bonnet and place pressure gauge so it can be seen from drivers seat.

When I had this problem, I went though the whole fuel system. Everything pointed to a faulty connection but I couldn't find it. Then it packed up completely. Power at relay, no power at pump. Then I found the alarm, dry joint and quite well toasted. Some dork had put a

5A fuel pump circuit though a 2A relay circuit and connectors on the alarm. Soldered alarm and wired up external relay.

Darned Haynes manual! those pictures are never accurate! I will retest. Thanks.

robbie wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@g28g2000yqh.googlegroups.com:

If you haven't checked already, inspect any air hoses leading to the throttle body carefully. If they are cracked and open up when your engine flexes the motor mounts as you accelerate, then it may be screwing up the air mixture.

Andrew Chaplin wrote in news:Xns9D26805F941AAbluegriffin@216.196.109.144:

Heh,they just talked about this on Motorweek yesterday...about the air duct from the MAF to the throttle body cracking and opening under motor torque.

I tried the egr valve bypass and it definitely helped, but there is still some slight hesititation. I am going to reinstall the fuel pressure gauge and mount it so i can test drive it while watching the gauge as someone else has suggested. I am convinced that the egr valve is part of the problems. Anyone know of any reason (except emissions) to get the egr system working properly versus leaving it bypassed? Thanks!

How about a blocked cat converter? My 87 Pulsar 1.6 had that problem. I'm not sure, but you may have 2 of them (the Pulsar did). One at the exhaust manifold and one in the usual location, below the drivers seat If only one, it's in the usual location

That is, in fact, where I got the idea, and it may fit with the problem he's having with his Sentra, especially since it is "stumbling during acceleration." It's an easy thing to check.

-- Andrew Chaplin SIT MIHI GLADIUS SICUT SANCTO MARTINO

In message , robbie writes

The EGR system helps purge the crankcase of fumes and any pressure build up caused by piston blow-by. Doing away with this could cause crankcase pressure and oil leaks.

No. Your thinking of the PCV valve, The EGR recirculates exhaust into the cylinders to lean out the mixture, warm the incoming air, and cool the burn so as not to burn valves

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: snipped-for-privacy@netfront.net ---

UPDATE: Thanks for the multiple threads of advice- ALMOST too much to try to troubleshoot!

1st- the TPS i tested correctly to ground and it indeed does test from .49v (closed throttle) to 4.25v (WOT) so I am ruling it out. EGR valve- disconected and plugged it, and i thought it was improved but after driving for more than a few minutes it has same symptoms- starving at WOT- i applied vacuum to the EGR while the engine idled and it is definitely working- engine nearly died from lack of fuel.

fuel pressure- I put a t-connector in after the fuel filter, and mounted it where i could watch while driving- it never got below about

35-38 psi,around 44 average- even at WOT-but I would like someone else to comment on that- what SHOULD the pressure be at WOT? according to Haynes the max pressure of the pump is 65 but there is no "max pressure at WOT" specification. if the fuel pump is just getting old then someone chime in! After finding nothing major i was retesting all the piping/vacuum hoses/intake plastics etc looking for a leak that could cause my symptoms. also unplugged and replugged Idle Air Control and a few other sensors. then i test drove some more and the Check engine light was flashing intermittently - at idle and at speed, and would mostly stay off, but i was kind of elated to see it. So i immediately pull the ECU out from under the center dash console area and check the codes and get VERY annoyed- still reading 55 - all systems check ok- so obviously the check engine code doesnt stay around long enough to be logged in the ECU! DANG DANG DANG! all right, I have ranted enough- let the suggestions begin again- and someone who knows about the fuel pressure

- is that enough fuel for WOT or is that where my problem lies? Thanks!

Mode III faults that result in non 55 code tend to be gross faults like something unplugged or shorted. When the code isn't 55 the check engine light will be on.

Some Nissan ECU's have a mode V - dynamic test. Doesn't store any fault for mode V faults. The flash pattern indicates which system the fault is in.

Sorry I don't have this data for Sentra 1.6, only UK/Euro '89-94 CA18DET. Sentra may be different. CAS missing pulse - even spaced slow flashes on 1.6sec off 1.6sec. AFM momentary spike in output, 2 flashes then a gap, on 0.6sec, off

0.4 sec, on 0.6sec, off 1.6sec. Ignition - signal from primary coil drops off, 4 rapid on/off 0.2 sec flashes, 1.8sec off. These faults can usually be traced to poor connections, tap tests are suggested to locate.

Have you measured manifold vacuum? It should be 18-20" Hg at idle and more importantly, it should be very stable. It should drop as throttle opening increases and should not be fluctuating wildly. If all of that is normal, I'd go back to the EGR system. You said that when you disabled it, things got better. If everything else checks OK, that's the only cause/effect relationship you have. A very lazy or a partially stuck open EGR valve, especially if there's a vacuum leak at the gasket between the EGR valve and the intake manifold, could be the problem. Good luck. Al

One other thing I have confirmed through multiple test drives- the symptoms do not occur at startup- they begin when normal operating temperature is reached. when cold the acceleration is strong and uninterrupted by any stumbling or hesitation whatsoever. so whatever is occurring is temperature dependent. i believe someone mentioned temperature sensor a while back on another thread- are there more than one temp sensors? my temp gauge works correctly by the way.

Yes there are 2 temp sensors. One single wire one for temp gauge and a

2 wire one for the ECU. Both will be on the thermostat housing.

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