97 Maxima SE Auto stalling at idle, hesitating at speed

Hi all,

For the last 5 weeks, I've had problems with stalling at idle and slight hesitation at speed on my 97 Max SE (auto, 168k miles).

I have taken my car to three mechanics - the first one (Firestone) said my fuel pressure was bleeding and replaced the fuel pressure regulator. I still have the problem.

After taking my car to Firestone, I took the car to a Nissan-trained mechanic, who also happens to be a friend of mine. He spent two solid hours at my house diagnosing the problem. He double-checked the fuel pressure - at idle, it would stay steady at just over 30 psi, running higher when you open the throttle. He was able to reproduce the stalling, and noticed that whenever it would stall, the fuel pressure stayed steady at just over 30 psi, seeming to prove that fuel pressure wasn't the cause of the stall.

Other tidbits for the detectives out there :) :

- engine would never stall at speed, but only as I come to a stop, accelerate from a stop, or while stopped at a light. At speed, I might feel a lurch or two, as if the engine were losing power briefly, then catching itself. Engine stalls whether idling in Drive, Neutral, or Park.

- I seem to remember noticing this problem soon after filling-up at a Mobil gas station. I have since run through that tank of gas, and have now re-filled twice more.

- Whenever the engine would stall, it would usually restart right away, but sometimes I'd have to "gun" the throttle a bit to get it to stay running.

- Check Engine light is NOT lit, but the computer is giving a 0304 code, indicating trouble with the knock sensor. The 2nd mechanic doubted that this would be causing the stall as all the computer should do is retard the throttle and not kill the engine altogether. Does that make sense?

- A couple times, while test driving with the 2nd mechanic, when the engine started to hesitate in the process of stalling, we pushed the (automatic) transmission to Neutral, but the engine still sputtered and stalled. The mechanic seemed to think that this proved the transmission likely wasn't causing the stalling. Also, the fact that the stalls occur while in Park, Neutral, or Drive would seem to eliminate the A/T as the culprit.

- Shortly after noticing this problem, I had a tune-up done, so new NGK platinum spark plugs, new fuel filter, new air filter, and clean throttle body. Also put in a new PCV 4 weeks ago.

- Also just put in a brand new battery about 4 weeks ago.

- Last week, I took apart and cleaned the IACV (following great instructions from motorvate.ca). I even took apart the plastic valve and verified that the plunger moved smoothly in and out while its drive shaft was turned.

- Also last week, I adjusted the base idle up close to 1000 RPMs, thinking it just needed to be bumped up. Problem is still here.

- The Firestone place also said that my fuel pump was weak. My friend mechanic didn't think it could be the fuel pump as the fuel pressure remained strong even after the engine stalled. Would the above symptoms support a failing fuel pump? I have never replaced it in the 168k miles that I've owned the car (I'm the original owner.) Is there a diagnostic test? Is it easy to get to the fuel pump?

My friend mechanic concluded that there were no problems with the fuel delivery, and no electrical issues as the engined seemed to run perfectly except for the occasional stalls, and after two hours of diagnosing, the best he could come up with was that I probably got bad gas.

Based on that, I put in two bottles of HEET when I filled up two tanks ago. Problem is still here.

I was just wondering what the collective wisdom of the forum thinks.

- Based on the history above, does the diagnosis of bad gas hold up?

- Are there other things that should be checked? -

- Should I have the knock sensor replaced?

Thanks everyone!

Reply to
JQ
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hi, i've heard that some maximas have a problem with the MAF sensor, that could be what's causing it..it's fairly easy to diagnose..just need a multimeter..if u got a good manual it'll tell you how to test it, let me know if you need instructions and i'll look it up in my manual). i know if the torque converter does not relase when the car is stopped in drive it will stall the engine..but that's probably not it since it does it in park and neutral too (someone correct me if the car can stall in park and neutral with the torque converter locked up).

Reply to
inag77

Thanks for your input! I had actually suspected the MAF Sensor as well, after reading about a bunch of people having problems with it. Well, I tested my MAF Sensor this afternoon according to the testing instructions in my Chilton manual, and the sensor appears to be operating according to spec. It was also very clean.

Is it possible that the MAF is faulty even though the resistance measurements are up to spec?

I also went ahead and pulled the back seat to get at the fuel pump. I checked the resistance at the pump per the Chilton manual as well, and everything is according to spec.

Like the MAF, is it possible to get the proper resistance measurements but still have a fuel pump that is going bad?

Thanks!

snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Reply to
JQ

the fuel pump will usually just go out with no warning. i've seldom heard about an electric fuel pump giving warnings that its on its way out. did you check the reading on the MAF when the engine started to hesitate?

Reply to
inag77

I haven't been able to check the MAF when the engine started to hesitate or stall, since it always since to happen while I'm driving. If I'm just in my garage idling, I can't seem to get it to stall.

Maybe I can semi-permanently hookup my multimeter to my MAF and have l> the fuel pump will usually just go out with no warning. i've seldom

Reply to
JQ

JQ,

I found your article very interesting and can relate to having the same problem(s) with my 2000 Maxima which has 95,000 on it. I'm taking it in tomorrow to have it looked at. I'm going to have the fuel injectors cleaned and have the MAF sensor checked. The hesitation at high speed is definitely something I can relate to, as is the grabbing after you let off the accelerator. I almost thought it was a tranny problem. I already changed out the fuel filter myself, but not the pump or the pressure regulator. I wanted to know if you found out anything else about the MAF sensor or any additional info that might be helpful for my mechanic. Thanks. Scott

snipped-for-privacy@verizon.net

JQ wrote:

Reply to
Scott S via CarKB.com

Hi Scott,

Nope - haven't found anything yet, and I'm just learning to deal with the occasional stutter and stall. :( I've also grown tired of taking the car to a mechanic, paying them another $500, and not have the problem fixed.

As I mentioned in a previous post, I've tested my MAF per my Chilton book, and it returns the proper readings. But then again, the test is so simple (simply backprobing the + terminal of the MAF and measuring voltage at various RPMs) that I have no confidence that the process is testing the MAF properly.

I wish there was a place that would loan me a good MAF that I could swap in to see if the problem goes away. I'm very tempted to buy a used MAF from Ebay (for around $80)!

Is your Check Engine Light (or Service Engine Soon light) on? Mine isn't. And I've read of many instances where the MAF is starting to fail, not enough to light the CEL, but enough to cause problems to the engine.

Please let me know what they find on your car.

Thanks!

Scott S via CarKB.com wrote:

Reply to
JQ

Why not buy the MAF off ebay, swap it in and see if it works. If the problems persist, just re-sell the MAF on Ebay. You'll likely end up breaking even or at most be out a few dollars.

Nirav

Reply to
njmodi

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