306 HDI Rear Fuel Pump Problem

I know this is a common problem and I have done what research I can on the Net.

I do have a circuit diagram, but not a full service manual.

I have established that the pump works when connecting 12V directly to it, and have started the engine under these conditions. I therefore conclude the problem is in the circuit feeding it and not the pump itself (it took about 7A which I would have thought is reasonable).

To take the diagnosis any further, I need to get at the "controller" which from the circuit diagram looks like it consists of a couple of relays and a couple of diodes.

Can anyone please tell me where this controller is and how I can identify it.

Also, there is mention of an inertia switch which would cut the fuel off in the event of an accident - I think I may have found that - there is a switch with a red rubber cover mounted on the side bulkhead rear of the battery. It would be useful to have confirmation that this is the inertia switch.

I would be grateful of any help and I am sorry it this has been discussed at great length in the past.

Colin A

Reply to
Colin Archer
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Yes that sounds like the inertia switch, press the rubber cap down, if it clicks in to position, then that could be your problem, failing that, look for and check the fuel pump relay ? Fitzy

Reply to
Fitzy

Fitzy - thanks - I have tried this and no joy.

I need to find this fuel pump relay - can you tell me where it is and what it looks like.

Thanks again Colin

Reply to
Colin Archer

Hi,

Found it once on a Picasso 2L HDI 90HP, it was in the engine bay, a Bitron unit with a couple of relays into it (schematic etched on the box) and the couple of diodes being the freewheel diodes. Was a kind of pale orange-coloured rectangular box. Unfortunately I was unable to locate it on my parents' 2002 206 HDi 90.

HTH,

-- G.T

205 Diesel & turbo-Diesel :
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Reply to
G.T

Sorry Colin, don't know where the relay is on that model, you could call the dealer and ask for parts dept, then ask the price of a pump relay, then ask where is it located, (a bit sneaky) but it works for me at times,,,,,, if you ask direct, they wont give the advice,

do you know anyone with a fault code reader ? this would or should indicate where the fault is, Fitzy

Reply to
Fitzy

It's attached to the rear of the battery box, between the box and the bulkhead. It's called a double relay and is either black or brown with a red slide type locking connector.

Reply to
nigel

Cheers Nigel, I knew some one would know, Fitzy

Reply to
Fitzy

Thank you everybody - just to let you know I have located said relay and after a few rudimentary tests, the fault was obvious, but not easy to correct. The relay plug pin 8 (12v feed to the pump) had been arcing and had overheated melting the plastic surround. I have tweaked what remains of the contacts and we're now running OK but I don't know if this will be a permanent solution. If it fails again all I can think of is to cut off the moulded plug and piece it out to separate miniature spade terminals for connection to the relay.

I have to admit this is the first time I have ever posted anything to a newsgoup and it has been very successful.

Thanks again everyone

Colin

Reply to
Colin Archer

Hi,

I guess you've been pretty lucky it wasn't the pump (on the Picasso I saw it was the case, not the same bill). Worst case you'll have to buy a brand new relay (check the contacts on the female part for any lose connection) got not idea about the price, but should be far cheaper than the pump :-)

Regards,

-- G.T

205 Diesel & turbo-Diesel :
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Reply to
G.T

Hello GT, you could still be right about the pump ?? something has caused the relay block to melt, possibly a defect within the pump drawing lots of AMPS, I hope I'm wrong Fitzy

Reply to
Fitzy

Hi,

Yeah, right... The fact is, the relay should have a burnt connection on input & output if it really was the case... I'd rather think of an excessive clearance on the connection spades (although it seems pretty secure), hence the ars destroying the contacts.

I don't say you're wrong, but a problem with the pump *should* be struggled by the fuse... A current measurement is not that easy (all runs into a (4 ? from memory)) cable, not easy to use an amp meter.

Regards,

-- G.T

205 Diesel & turbo-Diesel :
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Reply to
G.T

On that note, yesterday I was UNlucky and my 99 2L 306 HDi rear pump went completely. Mr AA said there was electric going to it and plenty of fuel, but alas, even after some hammer-work he was unable to get it to kick in. I suppose it is getting on a bit and has 110k on it.

Looks like today's task is phoning round garages.

Reply to
robinw77

Turned out to be about 160 quid in total, if anyone else gets a failure of this part. The motor in the pump had just failed completely.

Reply to
Bobbo

"sharp intake of breath" sounds painful, but at the end of the day,,, you cant go anywhere without it,,, Fitzy

Reply to
Fitzy

Learn to do it your self and SAVE MONEY,,

Reply to
Chris

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