1999 9-3 Alternator Pulley Noise

Much more likely to be one of the idler pulleys. These have a history of going that way, alternators do not.

Cheers Fred, I appreciate that.

I actually had the car in for other work and the mechanic showed me the play in the alternator pulley. So back to my original question, is there a way to replace just the bearing in the alt. pulley or the pulley assembly altogether? Or, do I have to get a rebuilt alternator?

I've been pretty handy with fixing my own Saab so far, I can probably do this alone, once I figure out the way to the part that needs changing.

Not to be nasty, but it seems this days that garages really prefer to change entire major parts rather that getting into replacing the usual small malfunctioning part out of the bigger assembly. (sorry for the rant).

Ah, then you've already done your homework... it'll be a rebuilt alternator then.

Thanks Fred!

Not to beat it over the head, but does anyone have any experience opening an alternator and changing just the bearing?

I use to do it for Renault in Europe, not easy, but very doable. The cost difference (if you don't count your work) was big (i.e. rebuilt alternator = $200US, bearing = $5US).

Yup, if you're comfortable doing small motor repair, there's really nothing surprising.

Exactly. I've got one apart on the bench right now for my 99Turbo, on the theory that the one I have is fine, just gritty. We'll see how that goes...

Excellent! For my own education, does the Saab alternator have a bronze bushing at the pulley side and a bearing at the other end (towards the electrical connections, diodes, etc.)?

Or the bearing sits right at the pulley, with a bushing at the other end?

Cheers, Ben

It depends on who made it and during which decade. I haven't had a c900 or newer alt apart (yet) so let us know when you find out ;)

I'd expect there to be a bearing at the pulley end regardless, that's where all the axial load is.

Dave

How hard can it be to fit a new bearing? Here in Virginia they will rebuild the whole mess for fifty dollars. There is nothing critical here. Actually a good ball bearing would probably do better than a sintered bronze one.

FWIW - If you have not replaced the upper idler pulley in 45K miles or if you do not know when it was done, replace it and the belt. Check the water pump pulley (bearing) for wear while you are in there.

Hi all,

I managed to replace both bearing in my alternator. Here's the specs and the how:

Car: '99 9-3, manual, with A/C Alternator: 130Amp BOSCH

- After removing the alternator off the car, I removed the front pulley nut (24 mm) with an impact wrench.

- Pulled the pulley off the shaft with a 2 arm gear press.

- Removed the black cover off the back of the alternator and the brush holder as a unit (2 screws).

- Removed the 4 bolts that connect the 2 halves of the alternator together.

- Pried off the 2 half's (mine were a bit rusty, took some doing).

- Removed 4 small screws that hold the big bearing in the front (pulley side). Depressed the bearing.

- Used the 2 arm puller to remove (very carefully) the small bearing at the back (you have to remove a plastic cover off the bearing first). THIS is the bearing that was making noise in my alternator.

- Pressed back both bearings.

- Cleaned as much as I could all the parts and assembled back in reverse order.

_ Installed on car, and presto, it seems to be working ok (so far 500km).

TOTAL cost = $10 CAD for the bearing at the local alternator rebuilder. DEALER cost, if I would have had it in with a new alternator = 1,200 (parts) + 300 (labor) = 1,500 DEALER cost, with rebuild alternator = 400 + 300 = 700

Hope this helps, I can send links to reference sites on the web, if needed.

Cheers, Ben

Dave H> >