Looks like we've got a bait message to see if this group is trollable. If you're replying to odd posts, please consider not continuing the crosspost. Just brings noise in to the group.
- posted
17 years ago
Looks like we've got a bait message to see if this group is trollable. If you're replying to odd posts, please consider not continuing the crosspost. Just brings noise in to the group.
Hi,
What traffic are you seeing? I must be missing it, good.
Have you done the CV + axle? Do you want to remove the cv from my 9000 (the b@st@rd) so I can change the boot? The damn thing is glued in place :-D
Regards Charles
It was a jibberish, almost hipcrime looking post, crossposted to an odd group. It's in a filter now so I'm not going to dig through and find it, but the crosspost obviously caught my eye.
Mostly. NAPA's parts book was wrong (at least at the local) and I got one with the inner driver bearings being too big. The NAPA tech line (english speaking and in the USA which is a refreshing change) was familiar with the parts, and "yup, that won't fit and we don't have one that will". I considered doing the snapring and swap thing but... I went back to NAPA, they gave me a full refund including shipping (that last took a bit of discussion; "Well, look at it this way, why should I pay for you to ship me the wrong part so I get delayed by a week?").
The guy at NAPA mentioned A1 Driveshaft in Milwaukee as someone who can rebuild the CV. OK, fair enough. So, 62 bucks later (total!), I've got what the tell me is my same shaft back, looks brand new. And they did it in an hour. Blasted/painted the shaft, reground the ball seats, put in oversize balls, new boots, new grease, new clamps, not a speck of rust or grime anywhere on it. It's almost a shame to put it into that car. But 62 bucks and an hour...wow. Hella deal for them if you think about it, too; good business model.
This one just slid out of the hub. You, er, have taken the nut off, right?
You may want to consider replacing the CV joint boot from the tripod bearing side. You can do it from the CV joint side by opening the snap ring and knocking the CV joint out of the shaft at the same time. I found it far easier to remove the tripod bearing to remove both the inner drive boot and the CV joint boot by sliding them out of the drive shaft.
You need a gear puller to remove the tripod bearing. If you don't have one Autozone lets you borrow one for free. Either way it is a messy job.
alt.bbs.tribbs:11695
these operations. Some fundamental aspects of IEW support to OOTW are
I did removed the nut :-) The instructions on the net and the Haynes manual say it will take some work to move the CV off the hub.
I am changing the thread on the next message.
Charles
Hi,
I can't remove the CV joint from the hub.
My hub puller would not take the road wheel bolts of the car. So I used an ordinary puller and some fittings I had made for previous cars. I bend the fittings :-)
Now a different hub puller has been bought ... it has bigger gaps for the road wheel bolts. See if this
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So how much hammering is needed?
Pullers I have, heavy hammers too ... it is just I don't like hammering :-)
No need to hammer. I used this,
Wouldn't it be easier to take the hub round to a shop with a hydraulic press. I always watch with wonder how they remove and replace bearings and shafts.
Man has a point, Charles. Perhaps you could just undo the balljoints, tierod, and leave the caliper on the car and carry the whole thing in. If you were anywhere near here, I'd do the press work for you. Unless it's a strut in which case same point applies with different details. Take the hub with you, get it out of the car, and whale away on it with something heavy, at an angle that's conducive to that sort of work.
Dave "On call, 1:am, and waiting for someone in India to do their work...grrr..." Hinz
I looked at your problem again and realized you have the drive shaft still in the car. That makes it more compelling to do it from the inner drive end by removing the tripod bearing using a gear puller. Separating the drive shaft ftom the hub is more difficult on a 9000 than a c900. You use the same cheater bar to loosen a 32 mm nut on the axle. But you need to pound the axle in to loosen it from the hub. I had the drive shaft removed to pull the tripod bearing. But it can be done with the drive shaft in car.
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