OK, while changing the brake servo today, I maged to snap the small coolant pipe from the header tank, while trying to manouvre it out of the way of the master cylinder.
I know where there is one in the scrappy, and the coolant in the system still looks OK. WHat would be the best way to swap the header without having to do a complete drain flush and refill?
And I still have to find a pressure bleeder now too, so I can bleed everything through as I had to disconnect the master cylinder to get the old servo off.
Just undo the hoses goig to the header tank. That will bring the level down below the tank. With the tank being the highest point, you'll only lose about 2-3 litres.
Make one. B&Q 5l garden sprayer, about £12. Hose. Barb. Cap from scrappy.
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I'll grab one from Halfords if they have one, because they are only about £12 anyway, and use the spare for pressure, and I have a footpump so I can get the spare back if it starts to go too soft.
Cost me £30 for the Servo, so I hope it has done the job.
Managed to get the brakes back together OK below the dash.
I just have to put the dash back together when I'm finished. ATM it doesn't even have a steering wheel on.
I gave the cruise control switches under the footwell/knee bolster an adjust and tweek in a bit while I was down there as they are the screw adjust type, and cleaned the connectors.
And I reckon I'll have a look at some of the vac hose, but the brakes and coolant get priority.
Gunson's EZBleed are the biggest pile of sh1te you'll ever buy. But don't take my word for it - try it for yourself.
I had one before I made my grunff-o-matic bleeder. Every time I used it (yes, it takes me a few times to learn) I ended up with copious amounts of dot4 all over the engine bay.
Good price.
It's not that tight under there, is it? Just a bit dark.
Coolant is easy. Fill it up, run the engine with the cap off the header tank. Open up the bleeder on the thermostat housing and wait until no more bubbles come out (clear coolant flowing out). Close the bleeder. Top up if necessary. Done.
Make sure the heater valve (on the dash) is set to max heat when doing it.
Hopefully, I'll get on better. I would build my own, but I need it back together for Monday morning. And I tried to repair the old Expansion tank with a short piece of plastic from an old T piece to bridge the two ends that were broekn, and some 5 minute epoxy. 1 hour later, and it was still too soft to put together.
I know a new one is about £300 from Saab. Just happened to find one in a C900 8v injection at the scrappy near me.
Well, even with the speaker out it was very dark, although it was gone
3pm by then so I had lost most of the light.
Amazed at how mucg junk is on the passenger side, the cruise control switches, central locking, brake light switch, the wiring on that side was incredible.
Cheers, similar to a Skoda then, except you open the bleed tap as you fill it on one of them. Cheers. I will be back on the road. Hopefully I won't have lost too much fluid from the brakes.
Bear in mind that the system runs under pressure. That combined with 90C temp may be enough to persuade your repair to give way. It may not, but it may.
Carry a couple of gallons of water with you until you get a new tank. If it does give way, run it with the cap on loose, stopping to top up every mile or so.
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Im not trusting it, it was just to put the hoses back together over night till I can get a replacement.
Don't worry, I'm getting a lift to the scrappy tomorrow, to get the one from the 8v. I wouldn't trust it as a temp repair never mind permanent. I have more faith in gaffer tape.
Brakes bled. Fine, clutch great. Gunson kit worked fine wonce I worked out how tight the cap needed to be. Pumping the space saver back to 60psi with the footpump after wards was a killer, after letting it down to 20 for the gunson though.
Fluid coming through looked only marginally darker than that going in, so maybe it had been fully flushed recently.
Even all the bleed nipples opened OK, with just one with a threat of rounded edges, Bloody hell, 11mm on the front brakes, 7mm on the rear brakes, and 13mm on the clutch slave. You think they might have standardised on something.
Still put two gunson bottles (the reserve bottle) through the brakes, and 1 bottle through the clutch slave. Only really got a lot of air though the drivers side, even though the whole master cylinder had been disconnected, with just a bit through the other front wheel, and very little through the rears even though I gave it most of the fluid through the rears, and no air at all in the clutch line thank god.
Brakes still seem a little soft, more loads of travel than anything, because when you feel them bite, it is consistant, and not spongy, and it doesn't pump up.
Guess I will need some goodrich hoses on the front now.
Felt good going for a drive after I got it all back together, but I still need to work out how the get the PC screen working again, although it was all thrown together in half dark.
After a quick 70/80 down a couple of A roads, and the M62, I let it idle for a bit, and the fan kicked in after about 10 mins, so about right there, and the temp immediatley dropped, so I guess no airlock of any consequence.
Job done. Scrappy was a rip off merchant though. £30 for the servo, but £25 for a coolant header bottle. Scheming bugger, he could tell I was agitated and remebered I had had the servo the day before, so must have buggered something up.
Ouch! I think £30 for the servo is good, but £25 for a header tank?? When I was building a project a couple of years back, I bought half a dozen header tanks for about the same amount (didn't know which shape would fit best).
Halfway to work, lost boost gauge and heater selector. Looks like I popped a vacuum hose off. Had a quick look under the bonnet, nothing loose there, must be under the dash. Hope I can reach it through the speaker grille.
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Then coming out of work, the car wouldn't start, no handbrake light, oil light or level showing on the fuel gauge.
Waited for 40 mins for the AA, then get told they are delayed and going to be another hour.
Decided to see if I could see what the problem was. Opened the passenger speaker cover. had a poke arround and found that the top wiring connector was only partly connected and loose. Not bad eh, fixed by touch in the dark, and with just guess work.
I gave one of the gusy at work a lift to the supermarket at lunch and he slammed the door a bit hard. Must have knocked it out.
Still getting an intermittent problem with the boost gauge and heater flap selector.
Noticed today, that it isn't just the boost guage not working, it is the boost gauge only showing boost. It will drop the 0 pressure area off boost, but not go into - vacuum, and once it actually stuck at + a small ammount, and then gradually crawled down.
Then after the car has been sat for a while, it will work fine. I'm guessing I've nipped a hose in there somewhere and the trapped pressure is gradually leaking back. Only explanation I can think of.
Oh, and to add insult to injury, while passing an Audi TT this morning, on a Dual carriageway, got it upto about 60 in 3rd, just about to shift up to 4th, when there was a pop, and a stumble, and the bloody thing just limped along till I could pull over.
Bloody boost pipe to the intercooler had decided to part company with the turbo.
Not the most pleasant job, reattaching a boost pipe to a turbo at working temp, when the jubillee clip is awkward to get at.
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