Help please - miscellaneous probs with '93 9000 CSE 2.0 LPT Part 2

Hi again !

Please see part one for the background !

Any help with the following questions would be much appreciated.

Electrical problems !

  1. Heated rear window / mirrors don't work

Push the switch and the illumination briefly brightens then dims again after releasing. Assume a defective time delay relay.

Comments ?

  1. How do you get to the relays ?

Have a Haynes ( yuck ) manual somewhere. Suggests that the top of the dash can be removed to access various bits inside. Can't see how it's done. Is this how you access the relay box behind the glove compartment ?

  1. Miscellaneous illumination missing.

Bulbs obviously blown - car's actual mileage is around 155k instead of indicated 110k, so no surprise.

Access to panel is tricky - see above - also I got a few spare control panels off Ebay like the heater control panel - yet can't figure how to replace bulbs. Is ther some voodoo involved ?

  1. Headlights.

Main beam inoperative - well - explanation. There are 4 bulbs in the headlights. Only the inner 2 illuminate. The dip / full switch has an effect - it dims the 2 inner bulbs on dip setting and that's about it ! The blue main beam light on the dash doesn't illuminate.

No reason to suspect the outer bulbs are blown as there is no indication on the dash ( which has indicated a blown stop lamp - the high level one it seems ).

  1. Heater fan

Only works on position 4. Seems likely the resistor pack has gone u/s. Believe this is also behind the dash. Hence I need to get there !

  1. AC

Kinda hopeful that the AC might work but of course it doesn't ! Not ACC btw.

The AC switch appears to do nothing - zilch. But turning the fan to on ( position 4 only currently ) causes the engine to momentarily drop in revs and then speed up as if expecting the load. Regardless of whether the AC switch is pressed or not !

Ideas ?

  1. Trip computer display on dash

Nothing visible. Wondering if it's trying to tell me there's a problem with the engine management ! Maybe just rear illumination blown ? Once again need access to the bits.

Help !

I think this is the worst of it for now !

Thanks in advance for any help.

Graham

Reply to
Pooh Bear
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"Pooh Bear" skrev i melding news: snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com...

Either that, or remove the glove box. Removing the dash top is very easy. First, pry of the trim on the A-pillars, you can just pull them right off. Remove the speaker grilles, now you should see three screws around each speaker that holds the dash top. Another screw is located to the left of the glove box behind a rubber plug (open the glove box to see it) and the final screw is above the instrument cluster under the dash top, just feel around and you should find it.

If this is instrument lights you're referring to, you should be able to get the instruments out with the dash top removed. Just be careful not to lose the rubber feet at the bottom of the cluster, you might want to glue them in place before you fit the cluster back in place. You may have to remove some of the multiplugs to the cluster, just be sure to make a note of where they should be.

Heater panel is easy, just pull the controls straight out, and you can see the screws. Unscrew, replace bulbs, refit in reverse order.

I had hoped I had helped you by now ;)

Replace the bulbs as noted above.

Don't mention it.

Kristian

Reply to
Kristian Steve Jensen

The resistor for the heater fan used to be under the bonnet under a panel that is hard up against the bottom of the windscreen (sort of). It is held on by 6 or so little bolts. Under it is (or used to be on 1991

9000s) the heater blower with the resistor kinda stuffed into the side of it, along with the windscreen wiper motor and some other bits and pieces. >

The AC will not work if the the resistor has gone(item 5 above). Therefore, first fix your resistor......

Pooh Bear wrote:

The resistor for the heater fan used to be under the

Reply to
Paul Brownjohn

Oxidation on the fuses. Try scraping the fuse connectors.

It may not be necessary.

Replace bulbs.

Again, I expect oxidation around the plug connectors.

Well known issue on many cars, not just saab. You can replace the resistor pack in the blower housing, it easily plugs in from outside the plastic housing. Remove the large plastic shield across the firewall to get the the blower housing. However, resistor pack costs about £60 from the dealer, so another possibility is to repair it. I have a duff one which I intent to repair, once I know more details.

Probably just need a re-charging. Saab says it should be re-charged once a year, but at around £100 a go this may be a bit over the top. But if it hasn't been recharged for 3 or more years, then that's the problem.

Dunno, mine works OK (luckily). This may require some detective work.

All sounds a bit like my Saab, 1993 9000 CSE 2.0 LPT.

Reply to
Johannes H Andersen

Pooh,

Bookmark this site.

formatting link
it'll help you get through the small and some large problems on your 9k. I am on my second one. Great cars, but they do have a personality and do require tending to. If you let the little things go, it gets angry then breaks other more expensive stuff. ;-)

The invisible EDU in the dash (below the speedometer) may be a dead phototransistor in the clock unit. The device controls the brightness of the EDU and SCC (trip computer if yours has one instead of the analog clock). Here on this side of the pond, we can get a replacement Infrared Photo transistor and solder it on the board to fix it. If you short the

2 pin transistor, it goes to full bright. This would be a good test.

KeithG

Pooh Bear wrote:

Reply to
KeithG

There are two relay boxes under the hood and one relay cluster behind the fuse panel. Remove the felt trim and cover for the fuse panel to expose the relay cluster. The headlight relay box is infront of the battery. Another is hooked to the false bulkhead.

Likely the headlight relay in the relay box in front of the battery has a cracked solder joint. Pull the relay to open it up and examine. Takes five minutes to resolder the cracked joint.

No ACC? Sorry. Mine has no dials, just buttons.

R22 or R134? Check you freon charge.

You need to open the dash top to pull the EDU behind the instrument cluster. The dash top is easy to remove, two screws on either side after removing the speaker grill and two more on the front edge. One of the two on the front edge is in a recess on the right hand side of the instrument cluster. Another is behind the SRS tag on the passenger side airbag. I am speaking about the US model. Those with steering column on the wrong side maybe different.

In order to remove the speaker grills, you need to remove the felt trim on the front pillar. Pry the trim out at the top and pull up toward you sitting in the front seat to remove the felt trim. Be gentle. There are three plastic plugs fastening the trim to the pillar.

Reply to
Yaofeng

Hmmm, can't reach this site currently.

I bet.

My first 9000 is clearly a bit of a lemon. Nice enought to want to try another though. I actually was looking at an apparently superbly maintained Aero originally but lost it to another buyer.

That's a handy tip !

By chance I acquired a 'spare' trip computer ( along with a few switches and stuff ) off ebay a while back in case the trouble did indeed lie there. It was under £10 IIRC.

Cheers, Graham

Reply to
Pooh Bear
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Not Saab's best vintage year ? ;-)

Cheers, Graham

And many thanks to all who have contributed their hints, tips and advice.

Wish I'd thought of looking for a Saab ng earlier !

Reply to
Pooh Bear

Hm, a small straw can easily upset the cart. Not many cars are running so well at that age. This is the best car I've had so far; none of my other cars lasted that well and taken all that abuse.

Reply to
Johannes H Andersen

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