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I'm amazed at the difference, different oil makes.

When I bought the car, it was pretty clean under the bonnet. I asked the owner what oil he used. Synthetic he said.

So after a couple of weeks driving it, I did a change. Checked in the Halfords catalogue, it said full synth 5w40 or semi 10w40, so for a year I used the fully synth but keeping to the 3k miles change.

Over a 3k period I was probably using about 3/4 of a litre in topups. I tried Halford 5w40, and Chevron 5w40 from Costco, and it made no difference. The car ran a bit cool, and leaked/used oil but no visible smoke, so I assume lost.

I remember one of the regs on here a while ago mentioning they had switched to synth for a while and noticed leaks, so switched back and it cured it. Well, another change was due.

So I bought a can of engine flush, a new filter, and 5 litres of Carlube triple R 10w40 Synthetic (I think they mean semi synthetic though because their 0w40 and 5w40 are badged as fully synthetic).

It has been in the car for 2 weeks now, hasn't lost a drop, and it looks like the lower engine bay and the bottom of the trans case is starting to look a little cleaner.

Amazing the difference. The car tends to run a little warmer, but not overly so, but the oil doesn't look as dirty as quickly as it did with full synth.

Reply to
MeatballTurbo
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I use Halfords 5w40 fully synt in my 1993 9k 99,000 miles. Doesn't use a drop of oil between changes. I don't drive hard, so Halfords liqueur will do, besides they recently had a 'buy one get one free' on this oil, 2x5L for £29.99. Your oil might have leaked through the filter base or oil plug, did you use a new copper disc?

Johannes

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Reply to
Johannes H Andersen

In article , johs@sizefitter_spam_gets_fried.com spouted forth into alt.autos.saab...

I don't use a new washer, but I do anneal the old one, so that it softens, and forms a good seal.

After i started noticing leaks, I cleaned arround the drain plug, and it pretty much stayed that way.

This time I did give the filter an extra little tweak with a filter wrench (I know it supposed to hand tight, but my hands are always oily or the filter is slippy) Maybe either of those that has done it.

I'll keep an eye on from now on though.

Reply to
MeatballTurbo

However, adding a slurp of oil in between is no hardship, as long as you know what is happening. My previous Fiat Croma was a heavy drinker, that was just the way it was. It had a particular appetite for oil on long motorway journeys at high speed. I was once crossing the channel and driving through France. Late on the same day, and the oil was almost gone!

Reply to
Johannes H Andersen

If theres a bit of wear on the engine a slightly thicker oil will cause no problems and often stop any leaks or losses that were apparant. I use Mobil

1 0w40 in mine, but as that comes apart for a rebuild every 10K it doesn't get much chance to develop leaks ;), it burns a tiny amount, probably around 50ml in 1000 miles, due to oil being pulled past the stem seals at high revs, catch tank collects around 75ml between changes.

Matt

Reply to
**-**

I wonder if "carlube" is that good an oil compared with say Comma or Mobile, I would be reluctant to use it in mine. But as you change it at 3K I don't suppose it make a lot of difference. But a Good oil will save you engine in a failure situation like a belt braking.

Chris.

topups.

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starting

Reply to
chris

In article , johs@sizefitter_spam_gets_fried.com spouted forth into alt.autos.saab...

Yeah, Alfa TC engines (and the Fiat/Lancia equivs) do the same thing, something a litre every 1000 miles is considered acceptable from Alfa, I understand.

Reply to
MeatballTurbo

In article , snipped-for-privacy@tamate.com spouted forth into alt.autos.saab...

Engine has arround 132k (I believe genuine miles) on it, not bad for 20 years this year.

It was probably using/losing 250ml for every 1000 miles. Can't get Mobil

1 10w40 round here, Mobil 1 only appears to be availble in 0w40 in the local Halfords, or at Costco. Halfords own was only available 5w40 fully synth, and the local Autofactors had Carlube triple R in either 0w40 or 5w40 (labelled fully synth) or 10w40 (labelled synth which I understood to mean semi). As I've said engine warms up faster now, and runs slightly warmer, but doesn't overheat, and isn't losing any.
Reply to
MeatballTurbo

In article , snipped-for-privacy@delkasystems.freeserve.co.uk spouted forth into alt.autos.saab...

Yeah, I was a little dubious myself TBH.

But according to the blurb on the front, is used by Lotus and TVR in their engines from delivery, and on the back specifically states suitable for a turbo engine, and suitable (among the other brands) for Saabs.

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the company behind is a little bigger than I imagined.

looks a little better than I thought. It is more expensive than the Chevron full synth at Costco, but cheaper than the fully synth at Halfords (except when they have an offer on).

Reply to
MeatballTurbo

But the oils have the same thickness when warm at operating temperatures defined as 210F, this the grade 40 bit.

Reply to
Johannes H Andersen

"Johannes H Andersen" skrev i en meddelelse news:40B09AF4.4A8D6813@sizefitter_spam_gets_fried.com...

Yes, this "story" about using a thicker oil isn't valid. Besides, if the engine is leaking oil, the you shouldn't worry about the oil, but be replacing the seals.

Cheers!

Reply to
Henrik B.

"when warm at operating temperatures" Being the operative sentence there. Think about it!

Reply to
**-**

"**-**" skrev i en meddelelse news: snipped-for-privacy@uni-berlin.de...

Meaning? Operating temp is when the oil is at it's thinest. Sp wether you use a 5W-40 or a 10W-40 grade oil, won't make a differance - the oil will still get out of the seals....

Cheers!

Reply to
Henrik B.

Quite. The 5 or 10 bit is the grade at 0F. A low grade number in this place helps the cold starting, but the oil always gets thinner with temperature.

A single grade oil, say grade 40W-40 will have a huge variation of viscosity and would be very sticky at 0F. Multi-grade reduces the viscosity variation, but you end up at the same (temperature, viscosity) point as 5W-40 at 210F.

Reply to
Johannes H Andersen

Hi, I use Veedol synthetic oil SYNTRON SAE 0W-30. The 9000 CS 2.0i burns about half a litre for about 20000 - 25000 km, after that it will be renewed.

Greetings Axel

Reply to
Axel Schaefer

What of the flush being the reason?

TBerk

Reply to
T

I usually flush through after every 2nd/3rd filter change anyway, because while you can't get all the old oil out, I might as well shift any build up.

Has always leaked before and after flushing. This time, no leaks. 3 1/2 weeks in, and no sign of a leak.

Reply to
MeatballTurbo

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