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Re: Brake/Suspension Problem on 2002 9-3

Gary,

I took my car into dealer and mechanic test drove with me, seemed to know what problem was straight away, something about a sub frame - he also noticed clutch was 'juddering' so they are going to do all jobs at once (as well as a 4 wheel alignment). Ill try and give some more details and let you know if the problem get sorted.

Paul.

Gary, > > Thanks for your reply, sounds like you got a very similar problem to > me, I hope you get your problem sorted out soon enough and would love > to hear how you fixed it. If I get any joy from the dealers I am > taking my car into I will let you know. > > Paul. > > > > I think I've had a little of the same problem as you described with the > > clunking sound in my 1999 9-3. However, in my case it sounds more to me > > like it's a bad ball joint or my struts are starting to go. I get loud > > clunking sounds going over bumps, but also in tight steering situations like > > manuevering in/out of a parking spots. I can actually lightly feel the pop > > in the floor and/or in the pedals. > > > > I've had it into the dealer several times. In each case they > > couldn't/wouldn't identify the exact cause and temporarily resolved the > > issue by loosening most of the suspension and steering parts, and then > > tightening them back down to factory spec. This only resolved the issue for > > about the first 50 miles. > > > > In an effort to hunt down the issue I replaced the sterring rack myself with > > a used, but newer one I got a good deal on. I closely inspect the old one > > and the newer one, but didn't see much with either that could cause such a > > sound. The dealer replaced one of the lower suspension arms so I don't > > imagine it could be that anymore. > > > > I'm left with the theory that it could be my struts and so I've decided to > > order new struts. I'm looking for something better in quality than OEM > > anyway and maybe just a touch more sporty, but I'd prefer not to lose too > > much ride comfort. I'll probably end up with Koni or Eibach. I also > > figured it would give me a good oportunity to losen up much of the > > suspension parts and do some testing. As I write this now I'm even > > considering inspecting the insides of the CVJ cups for grooving, although > > probably won't find anything. If I have some success, I'll be sure to post > > back to the groups. > > > > Gary
Reply to
Paul
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I've heard from a few folks that re-torqueing the sub frame is some times needed. (The subframe is part of the frame that is bolted, rather than welded to the rest of the frame.)

Bob

Reply to
'nuther Bob

Please describe clutch juddering? I've had a problem with the clutch since I bought the car. It seems I have to give a little more RPM to the engine and ride the clutch a little more than I'm comfortable with to get a smooth engage. Otherwise the engine more or less chokes and bucks lightly. I'm used to it now, but you should see the confusion when someone else tries to drive my car. I had the dealer check that out too, but they claim nothing is wrong even though I saw the mechanic having trouble too. I also know better because my roommate has a 9-3, just one year newer, and his clutch is much easier. Once the clutch is engaged there's no slippage or any of the normal worn clutch indications.

Thanks, Gary

Reply to
Gozer

Which upper bearings and washers are you suggesting? Sorry, I'm still learning since my upgrade from my 900 to my 9-3. I'll spend some time with my parts diagram CD to see if I can find related parts.

I suspect what the dealer did was torque the sub-frame as you mentioned. Something must be wrong because the noise comes back very quickly. I'd have to say within a week or two of light town driving.

Thanks, Gary

Reply to
Gozer

Take a look at this diagram. It's for the NG900, but the parts are the same: http://216.78.172.32/suspension_folder/ng900ftsuspg1.htm The washer shown as #1 is known to bend, it should be flat. The bearing is #3 in the diagram. I also heard some stories about the zinc "spacer" which is #7 in the diagram. I think #1 is about $1, #3 is about $33, and #7 is about $7 (each, per side). If you are doing all the work you mentioned, then you might want to just replace them. I know that some folks have replaced #2 also - the upper mount. I didn't price that one as mine looked OK. I think you can get them from a place like tirerack (if you're in the USA).

Bob

Reply to
'nuther Bob

Gary,

To be honest I dont really know which bits they mean he mentioned the words sub frame and grease(!).

The clutch juddering is happening when you first set off in the car, its as if the clutch has been raised too quickly and/or you dont have enough RPM for the clutch to engage smoothly, i.e. it sounds kind of like the car is going to stall but it doesnt.

Ill keep you posted.

Regards,

Paul.

Reply to
Paul

Good to know about the clutch. Too bad my car isn't under warranty anymore. That's the kind of work I'd rather have the dealer waste their time on.

I spent some time testing the suspension to recreate the sound. I'm going to just go ahead and replace the parts in link that Bob posted, and maybe a couple more. I'm ordering them this week. Not sure that's the entire problem, but maybe it's a start.

Gary

Reply to
Gozer

Hi Gary,

I just got back from our holiday where we took our car up to scotland and back, have covered around 800 miles, mostly motorway driving ~85 mph and the car still seems to be OK - so it looks like maybe they have fixed the problem!

Hope you get yours sorted out!

Paul.

Reply to
Paul

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