DIY L-Series front disc brake job

Picked up new Bendix IQ disk brake pads for my 2001 LW300 V6 wagon as the brake pad indicators just started squeaking at 65,000 miles...................

Noticed that bolts on back side of caliper use Torx T45 male socket (same as oil drain plug), but they don't go all the way through like on my SL. It's not immediately obvious how to remove pads / caliper. Or, can you remove pads without reliper? In other words, what is the procedure to replace the brake pads?

I noticed rotors have a 1/8" ridge around the edge. Is this normal or have old pads cut a pit in the metal?

What is procedure to replace rotors?

Thanks in advance.

Reply to
rufus
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I've got the shop manual. will look this evening if I have time. Got to learn to do mine too now. Oppie ('01 lw300)

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Oppie

Reply to
beetle

Replaced brake pads, But!

I was going to do the rotors too, But!

The caliper holder is held on by two female hex head bolts.

How do you get them off other than blasting with C4? According to the Saab

900 reference, they are fastened with Thread-lock compound.
Reply to
rufus

Still haven't gotten around to looking it up.. sorry

Depending on the grade of thread lock, it will just come off using a breaker bar or an impact wrench. Some of the harder grades need to be heated to about 300F to substantially soften them. I rarely resort to heat. Even the red (heavy) grade used to hold on flywheel to crankshaft come off fairly easily with a decent impact wrench. If the bolt doesn't come out easily, back it out as much as you can, use a bit of penetrating oil, drive it back in again and work it out slowly. The heat of friction will help soften the thread-lok.

I have a set of Lisle male and female Torx drivers for a 3/8" socket drive. Never skimp on high torque tools. (also never overload a high strength tool, when they do fail there are little bits that go everywhere. safety glasses are good...)

Oppie

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Reply to
Oppie

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